Error code 46 / where to buy (in UK) a regulator rectifier

I installed hot grips on my bike, but unknown at the time the flylead from the battery to the controller got trapped and chafed, and I think I managed to create a short between the permanent live + and the - flyleads from the battery.

Next thing I know, up pops the engine management warning light and a 46 code

I've been troubleshooting the electrics, and have about 60v AC on each of the three white wires from the stator to the RR

When I rev the engine though the DC voltage in the main circuit from the battery doesn't increase

Seemed to me that the RR had failed (I'm guessing I burnt the diodes out via the short ?) I've tried dioide testing it following some instructions on the net, and it seems that it is indeed faulty, but I don't have enormous confidence in the testing (mainly as I don't understand it )

A new RR seems horrifically expensive - considering how cheap standard diodes are - but I guess its not a part I can prise open and repair ?

Can anyone help with

(a) does my diagnosis sound likely ?

(b) is it possible to repair a RR

(c) any tips on buying one in the UK ? Is there a non Yamaha alternative at much less cost ?

Many thanks all

The tests you performed seem rational.

Did you do the tests with the grips installed or removed, which would include the wiring unless you know the wiring isn't creating a short even with the grips disconnected?

What was the voltage at when performing the revving test?

I'm assuming you checked all the fuses, i.e. #6 to the battery as shown in the service manual.

If all the above checks out then can you test the RR? The attached picture is what I found on the WEB, which would give you some hints as to what you're measuring. The picture may not accurately represent what the RR is really. The diodes seem straight forward which is the rectification portion, but the MOSFETS might be a little more challenging. Diodes are fairly robust. If you suspect it's the RR, the FETs are probably shot. Can you get inside the RR?


Hope that helps a little. Good luck.

THanks

I took the grips off, so that I could rule them out and get the bike back to good running order first, and I sorted out the chafing on the flyleads, then used them to charge the battery (using an Optimate) so that I started with a full charge on the battery etc

I can't remember the exact voltage, but it was about 12.3v from memory, the thing was that it didn't change at all on revving - same voltage without engine running, at idle and at 4000 rpm

yep, checked #6 - though as that's the main fuse, I'm guessing nothing electrical would work if that one went ?

I tried testing the RR using some instructions from here:
http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf in Section C

and I got results which put me in the faulty RR column, but to be honest I don't really understand MOSFETS etc (I can google them, but I'm out of my depth reading the results !)

seemed to me that if I had 50-60 AC on each wire from the stator, and absolutely no difference in DC when I run the engine or rev, then I've either got a break in the wire from the RR to the battery (I suppose I should continuity test that) or a faulty RR

it was the RR

the feed wire for the grips controller had got caught in the bottom of the headstock (right term ?) and had shorted

new RR, £30 from evil bay, and back in action