Making my own exhaust slip-ons

I was going to wait before posting this thread, but...what the hell, I already let the cat out of the bag in the Exhaust Deminsions Thread

Remaining steps:
- Cast the inlet/outlets and end caps DONE 2 end Caps and 3 inlet/outlets cast so far, 1 inlet/outlet to go. Then I have to clean them up and prepare them for mounting to the cans.
- Assemble the slip-ons DONE
- Create a bracket DONE, Huckleberry1 was kind enough to sell me a set for $30. Thanks Huckleberry1 :thumbup
- Create a Y-Pipe DONE
- Install on the bike DONE

Check out the finished project on Page 1 here: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/23149-how-make-your-own-exhaust-slip-ons.html

Wish me luck, oh yeah, if any one has a Two Bros Bracket or Y-Pipe for sell, let me know, save me having to fabricate those too.

Here is where I am at so far:
- 36" of Hi-Temp, Oval, Carbon Fiber for $91 with shipping at Carbon Fiber Tubing
- 2 repacking kits from Two Brothers Racing for about $40 with shipping
- 24" of 1 3/4" perforated, stainless steel tubing for $19 at Motorcycle Parts and Accessories by Baron Custom Accessories for your Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, or Harley Davidson

I love the smell of burning oak.

jk

That looks great, what are you using as a pattern blueprints or actual pipes?

Can't wait to see them on the bike, Good Luck!!

i would think that it would be a bit hot for wood tips, other than that they look like they willl be totaly ba for sure... keep us posted and we always love pics

I believe the wood is just a pattern for a mold but I am curious , what material will the caps be made of ?

stryken said:

I believe the wood is just a pattern for a mold but I am curious , what material will the caps be made of ?

Click to expand...

I will be melting and pouring either, aluminum (from cans) or EDIT Zinc (pennies). I will be doing a test melt and pour to see which metal I prefer.

stryken said:

I love the smell of burning oak.
jk

That looks great, what are you using as a pattern blueprints or actual pipes? Can't wait to see them on the bike, Good Luck!!

Click to expand...

I used Two Bros diagrams to get me started then took some measurements on the bike, then drew up my own plans (first image posted).
I sized and shaped the oak patterns using the carbon fiber tubing, perforated stainless and exhaust pipe.

Looks neat so far, I'm interested to see how it turns out.

Wow! That's pretty cool! I love making my own furniture, like tables and entertainment centers, but this takes the cake. You have some top-notch wood-working skills.

Just about to make the molds and pour the metal, but first, my wife and I are off to Santa Cruz Island for a 4 day camping trip. I am hoping to get back on the project Thursday.

In the meantime here are the painted patterns, I painted them with a high-gloss black to keep the sand from sticking to them when I make the molds. In addition, here are pictures of one of the forms as well, I made two so that I can be working with one while the other is poured and cooling.

These are some serious skills people......

We should call this TWO JTARKANY RACING EXHAUST!

Cliff

EDIT: Have a fun trip!

mad skills,u have that same skill that bd43 has hats off to u :thumbup:

Any Progress?

How did I miss this Freakin Thread???? This is AWESOME!!!! :rockon: :rockon: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Progress report:

NONE , I have been scrounging aluminum cans, looking for powdered clay (bentonite, found out I can get it at health stores for colon problems) and trying to find parting dust and or any powdered hydrophobic material (suggestions welcome) I could find to keep the two halves of the mold from sticking together.

I did fire up the backyard furnace just to be sure it would melt the aluminum...it did...along with the 1 quart, stainless steel saucepan I was using as a crucible. I have a thermal gun that measures up to 936 F, the furnace pegged it.

I went to a scrap yard and got a 4" piece of steel pipe (free ), 6" long, took it to a local welding shop and had them weld a plate to the bottom for $20, this should withstand the heat.

Getting ready for a trip to my brothers in Susanville, will be back on the 15th and hopefully make progress then.

give a honk as u pass by redding:rockon:

Binks33 said:

give a honk as u pass by redding:rockon:

Click to expand...

Right on, will do :thumbup:

It is beautiful in that part of California.

Wow :thumbup:

Very impressive project! You maybe copied the commercial muffler too closely, no one's gonna know its fully custom!

Very cool idea! I'm looking forward to see how this project turns out:rockon:

Botch said:

Very impressive project! You maybe copied the commercial muffler too closely, no one's gonna know its fully custom!

Click to expand...

What you said got me thinking, so I have redesigned the end cap (for a hint, at what the new one looks like, take a look at the F-22 Raptor afterburner).

I have the bentonite (powdered clay) and will be using cocoa or talcum powder for parting dust, should be able to mold, pour and post pictures by Friday. Wish me luck :thumbup:

Ok...progress made. 1st cast today, did one end cap ane one inlet/outlet.

Yesterday, mixed the sand:- 40 lbs, playground sand, $7 for 50 lb bag (about 80 grit, pretty coarse, couldn't afford the more expensuive pet shop sand, very fine about 120 grit). I am on a budget after all

- 50 oz. Water


- Mix sand and water completely


- Add 4 lbs of Bentonite, $20 for 4 lbs (Powdered Clay). Available at Health Food Stores for Colon Problems


Mix Bentonite in completely, flatten out the sand, walk on it, repeat. You want each grain of sand to be coated by the clay.

Today Poured the first castings

- Place your pattern in the bottom of your mold and pack with sand, firm hand packing works well with coarse sand, use a ram for finer sand.


- Flip your bottom 1/2 of the mold over (so you see the top of the pattern you just packed in) Place two 5/8 dowels in you mold about a 1/2 inch deep on opposit ends of your pattern (this is where the metal will be poured in and rise out). Place the top 1/2 of your mold and pack with sand. Pull out dowels, seperate Mold halves, make your channels for the metal to flow to your part, remove your pattern.


- Fire up the charcoal furnace, 2 bags for todays pour $15, melt you metal, and wear your safety gear (dig that Scorpion Helmet, yeah, it's the one I ride with). Note the Muffin tin next to the molds, pour excess metal here to be used on the next melt.


- Pour the metal into your mold, your pour hole should be scooped out like a funnel to make for easy pouring, pour until you see the metal come up in the riser hole. Aluminum melts at 1100 - 1200 F and is ready to pour about 3 minutes after the last piece melts, besure to use a metal rod to scrape the nasty film off of the top of your metal before you pour.


More Photos on Page 3