MRGM
Junior Member
If you are a hardcore corner junkie like me, sooner or later you will run into the problem of ground clearance on the FZ6. There are a few steps you can take, in varying degrees of difficulty, to improve the fizzer's available lean angle. I didn't want to go all the way to rearsets and kickstand removal since the majority of my riding is on the street, and I like the peg position where it is. I wouldn't want my knees to be killing me after an hour.
First Mod: Remove Center Stand & Peg Feelers. $Free$
The peg feelers thread right out of the footpegs, just get a pair of pliers. Getting rid of that monstrosity that lurks under the bike will gain you a weight loss, better looks, and no worries about touching down. Many track day organizations require the removal of the center stand. The bolts holding the stand in place are tight and tucked away but you can get to them.
Second Mod: R6 Pegs. $65
The stock pegs with luckyirishboy's inserts are great for grip on the boots, but the stock pegs are tall and heavy! I bought some R6 pegs from Ron Ayers, and installed them on the bike, but in order for them to sit level I had to have the pads on the back of the peg welded up at a local weld shop. Cost me $15 on top of the pegs. File or sand down the weld till the pegs sit level. The R6 pegs are lightweight aluminum, and much more angled on the bottom so they don't touch down on the road as soon as stock parts.
Third Mod: Modify Sidestand. $Free
The first part of the bike to touch down will now be the sidestand. First we need to trim the bottom of the pad that sets on the ground.
After installing the R6 pegs and trimming the pad, my sidestand would touch down just about the same time as the new pegs. This is all and well, but if you look at the R6 pegs, the left peg is just over 1/2" longer than the right. I assume this is so the sidestand on the R6 won't touch down before the peg.
If we strategically remove material from the stand base, we can pivot the sidestand at least 3/4 of an inch higher. This now means that we can switch to an R1 peg on the left side of the bike, which is the same length as the right R6 peg, and your available lean angle will be the same in a left or right turn.:rockon:
A few notes:
In order to maximize our cornering clearance, we need to have the controls adjusted properly. The shifter and brake should be no lower than about a 3/4" below the pegs. This may seem high to some on the brake side, but if you ride with the pad of your foot on the peg, it will never be in the way. It is also very easy to push without dipping your foot too much in the middle of a corner on the track. This is as low as the brake can be, and not touch down before the end of the peg. If you look closely, you can see where I've already ground a flat spot on the end of the brake lever.
If you're headed to the track without a friend to help you with a track stand, I'd highly recommend you try this out :thumbup:
First Mod: Remove Center Stand & Peg Feelers. $Free$
The peg feelers thread right out of the footpegs, just get a pair of pliers. Getting rid of that monstrosity that lurks under the bike will gain you a weight loss, better looks, and no worries about touching down. Many track day organizations require the removal of the center stand. The bolts holding the stand in place are tight and tucked away but you can get to them.
Second Mod: R6 Pegs. $65
The stock pegs with luckyirishboy's inserts are great for grip on the boots, but the stock pegs are tall and heavy! I bought some R6 pegs from Ron Ayers, and installed them on the bike, but in order for them to sit level I had to have the pads on the back of the peg welded up at a local weld shop. Cost me $15 on top of the pegs. File or sand down the weld till the pegs sit level. The R6 pegs are lightweight aluminum, and much more angled on the bottom so they don't touch down on the road as soon as stock parts.
Third Mod: Modify Sidestand. $Free
The first part of the bike to touch down will now be the sidestand. First we need to trim the bottom of the pad that sets on the ground.
After installing the R6 pegs and trimming the pad, my sidestand would touch down just about the same time as the new pegs. This is all and well, but if you look at the R6 pegs, the left peg is just over 1/2" longer than the right. I assume this is so the sidestand on the R6 won't touch down before the peg.
If we strategically remove material from the stand base, we can pivot the sidestand at least 3/4 of an inch higher. This now means that we can switch to an R1 peg on the left side of the bike, which is the same length as the right R6 peg, and your available lean angle will be the same in a left or right turn.:rockon:
A few notes:
In order to maximize our cornering clearance, we need to have the controls adjusted properly. The shifter and brake should be no lower than about a 3/4" below the pegs. This may seem high to some on the brake side, but if you ride with the pad of your foot on the peg, it will never be in the way. It is also very easy to push without dipping your foot too much in the middle of a corner on the track. This is as low as the brake can be, and not touch down before the end of the peg. If you look closely, you can see where I've already ground a flat spot on the end of the brake lever.
If you're headed to the track without a friend to help you with a track stand, I'd highly recommend you try this out :thumbup:
