Mine were c1 -24 and c0 -4 Note that those are negative values
I have info in my how to thread
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/30125-enable-co-adjustment-usa-only-lean-richen.html
I went ahead and finally made a how to for this... it was well over do. I didn't re read it, so let me know if I left anything out. pictures should be self explanatory.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/30125-enable-co-adjustment-usa-only-lean-richen.html
Estimated Time: 20-30 minutes if you're really slow
Applies to:
All FZ6 Years produced for the USA
What you need:
Yamaha's tool kit that came with the bike or appropriate tools.
Some thin wire ( I used 18awg solid core but it doesn't really matter)
I also used two pairs of pliers to pull the...
87 for me too... no reason to go higher. Especially when the bike was made for 87. Only if you upped the compression, advanced the timings etc. would you need the higher octane fuel.
FYI... all that octane does is the higher the number the higher the temperature before it detonates. So if...
Oh dang... that sucks. Destroyed the bike, but it's good that he was ok (right?).
Wish I would have seen this before today. I went riding on the 12th, except it wasn't up palomar and it was with my girlfriend. So nothing too serious.
The Jacket:
Note there is a liner with zip off arms. A picture of the tag has also been added for size reference. (3xl Size 50)
The Cortech Tour Master jacket is in good condition, the pictures don't do it justice. The jacket is perforated leather, perfect for summer. For all local buyers...
I just want to get rid of my semi beat, but usable fairings, tank and good fairing tree.
I also have a nice XL Cortech jacket that's been lightly used.
I'll put pictures of the rest up if anyone is interested.
I was thinking $35 + shipping for the tank. Let me know...
Whenever I test my stuff I have a friend drive around me and lmk what the problems are... there's always room for adjustment. Typically the Ebay kits are good for ~6 months depending on how many times they cycle on / off. You can go read stuff about them. Basically they're the abandoned OEM...
The 8000k bulbs are blue but if you want those lights where you say DAMN that's blue 10,000 is the way to go. Any higher and you'll just get purple with no light output at all.
Didn't I see you asking about a trickle charger in a different thread? Wouldn't that indicate a problem(though minor) or consequence if you don't like the word problem.
If you want expert advice on everything lighting... hidplanet.com is the place.
When people say yellow is the best... it's the best for rain. The more blue or higher kelvin a bulb is rated at the worse it will penetrate rain etc. that's why they put them in fog lights. As for the best light...
;) I'm too lazy to search.
Plus most people don't manually set the aperature / shutter speed so the before and after shots typically aren't comparable.
I'm bidding on some 6 dollar (shipped) HID bulbs on ebay. I've got some extra ballasts that belong to my yet to be installed fog lights...
Do you guys realize the reason the light output is so good is because high beams point straight and blind other drivers while low beams point down. The fact that you have one or the other filament lit doesn't mean much other than you're producing a bit more light.
High Beam ------
Low Beam \...
Heh... I learned that one in elementary school... I walked every day and quickly learned you never leave the zippers at the top because the weight of whatever is in the pack will naturally open the pack up.