I was thinking about this last year but never got time to do it. I think a box with some passive components taking a signal from an injector wire would tell when Fuel Cut Off was on, then output a voltage into the TPS would do it.
It's not likely I'll have time for it soon though.
Not sure about the temp and fuel but speed and rpm are digital, I hooked up a microcontroller and read them.
I wrote about it here https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/57771-led-helmet-display.html
In between these 2 stick in "-pull the fuel pump and check for rust/gunk"
If the bike hasn't run for a while there can be all sorts of gunk in the fuel tank
Best thing when you buy a bike is replace ALL fluids including fuel
Yes, forgot about that bit.
That was mine before the replacement motor, still together but the screwdriver on the phone amplifies the noise heaps.
I wrote about it here
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/57714-engine-swap.html#post632913
Could it be that loose screw vibrating ?
I like to hold my phone against a screwdriver and record the sound Then use audacity to see the waveform.
Did this a while ago trying to diagnose a bent crankshaft, video here https://youtu.be/qfw9BCuzbo0
This is what I got off audacity, screwdriver...
Do you have a multimeter?
On both pins of the temperature sensor you should get 2.2 to 2.7 kΩ at 20 deg C (68 deg F).
Check the wires for continuity between the temperature sensor plug and ECU - same color wires.
Check the connectors for corrosion.
Good video. I know I'm a nerd but I have worked out the formula for stopping distance.
mph x mph / 30 / G force = stopping distance in feet
for Aussies and other metric people
kph x kph / 253 / G force = stopping distance in meters
Easy to see that speed is the major factor as it's squared.
That makes sense, mine had nearly new clutch plates when I bought it. A micrometer showed a bent crankshaft though.
Getting close now - that metal may be the cause of the stretched timing chain too.
Need to find more of it and where it came from.
That's right, it's very easy to check if you have the covers off already though.
The 2 pistons going up and down without fuel would be exactly the same as going down a long hill with the throttle shut.
I doubt that is the cause.
That's right I've had a couple of these motors apart and the oil pump chain is very loose.
It might be worth pulling the cam shafts off and checking for a cracked valve bucket or shim too, just to eliminate all possibilities while you have it apart.
Wriggle the clutch basket around to check...
A couple of more things for your list -
Rubber doesn't last long in the sun,
Get new tires, the old ones will be hard / cracked so will be a risk of a blowout and have little grip.
The seat will most likely need recovering, being in the sun that long.
I'd buy it anyway. Good luck.
Just a tip, when you pull the CCT make sure you keep pressure on the chain. It can jump a tooth on the cams otherwise, especially with a worn chain.
If that happens a piston can whack into a valve, not cheap to fix.
I've had the same happen in a few cars from bad connections, the connectors get hot when the starter is cranking, usually the earth on the battery but relays get hot too if they're corroded inside.
The thing is if the shop didn't look up the drive chain slack there is every chance they didn't look up the torque specs.
A couple of things that are easy to check - is there a new lock washer on the drive sprocket? Did they do the wheel alignment?
Better to get the tools and do it yourself. I'd never go back to that shop again. Check over everything else the shop "fixed" there are great threads on here about wheel alignment and adjusting the chain.
Don't ride it like that, it will cause major problems, it may have already if you went 100...
In addition to the above can you go through the diagnostic tests? There are detailed threads on this but a quick how-to below.
Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump. Turn the main switch and engine stop switch to OFF.
Press the SELECT and RESET buttons, turn the main switch to...