I've built and use the one from this thread. If you follow the instructions and get the parts listed you should have no problems. I've had mine for a while now.
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View attachment 56470
The manual doesn't want # 1 messed with as its the baseline for the Target Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). If moved, you can use a vacuum gauge to get it back to a **near** ideal setting.
By changing the baseline #1 value you can adjust all cylinders to swing the AFR value (Rich or Lean) at idle. The happy spot will be when both the RPM and the manifold vacuum meet the OEM settings. Hint: Those adjusters are setting how much air each cylinder gets. The fuel is basically a fixed value based upon engine temp and RPM.
Get all ports sync'd (+/-4mmHg of each other) and take note of RPM and manifold vacuum by inserting at "T" gauge at the vacuum sensor (see pic).
- Turn all adjusters in an 1/8 to 1/4 observing the RPM and Vacuum.
- If both increase your getting closer to ideal. Repeat until rpm/vacuum declines.
- If both DECREASE, GO BACK. Open ALL 1/8 to 1/4. If both RPM and Vacuum increase your getting closer to ideal. Repeat until vacuum declines.
- In short, find the balance that achieves smooth high idle (NOT BY MOVING THE THUMB SCREW) and higher vacuum readings. For smooth year round performance, run towards the richer side = lower vacuum ###.
Too rich = lower idle speed, stinky exhaust, but better throttle response (to a point) and less likely to die from decelerating.
IDEAL = Higher vacuum but NOT the highest, Steady RPM. In short - From the HIGHEST Vacuum values, screw them in to richen them 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn.
Too lean = higher idle speed, but may stumble or induce slower throttle response when too far. Dies when coming down from RPM.
ALL Adjusters Turned IN = lower AFR = richer
ALL Adjusters Turned OUT = higher AFR = leaner
Connect a vacuum gauge using a "T" to the sensor shown here in the bottom right w/3 wires coming from it.
This assumes the CO (C01/C02) adjustments are the OEM values set from the factory and a fuel controller is not adding/removing fuel at idle.
EDIT 2015-04-14: Our FSM Does NOT state this but: Idle for FZ6R is supposed to be set at 4.5 to 5.5%Co which equates to an AFR of 12.83 to 12.43:1.
NOTES: Although 14.7:1 AFR is ideal for emission purposes, its too lean to run at reliably throughout all riding conditions - hot/cold, high altitude/low altitude, different fuel blends etc, thus running on the richer side helps the bike run reliably. That said; FZ6R idle at vacuum is even higher than ours running at @32kPa (9.37inHg, 238mmHg) {4.5 - 5.5%Co}. Point; I'd guess our ideal AFR at idle is ~5.6%Co or 12.4:1 AFR.
FZ6 Idling condition S1/S2 models...
Engine idling speed: 1250–1350 r/min
Intake vacuum: 29.0 kPa (8.6 inHg) (218 mmHg)
Water temperature: 95.0–105.0 °C (203.00–221.00 °F)
Oil temperature: 75.0–85.0 °C (167.00–185.00 °F)
Throttle cable free play: 3.0–5.0 mm (0.12–0.20 in)
8. Your completed manometer should look something like this, fluid should be leveled out after a few hours and 6-8" of fluid in each hose.
9. If you have not already done so, attach the 4 vacuum restrictors to the ends of the 4 hoses.
YOU HAVE BUILT YOUR MANOMETER!!!
The vacuum restrictors have a small brass insert in one end. Which end do I attach to the 4 hoses at this point?
Is it cylinder 1 or 2 to sync too? I have a 2008 FZ6, and would like to perform a sync but there are posts saying cyl 1 and another one saying cyl 2? Thanks for any help.
Why does the tutorial direct us to sync the throttle bodies first, then adjust the idle rpm, then sync them again? Could we just get the bike up to temp, set idle rpm to 1350, then sync throttle bodies once and be done?
Is it cylinder 1 or 2 to sync too? I have a 2008 FZ6, and would like to perform a sync but there are posts saying cyl 1 and another one saying cyl 2? Thanks for any help.
Besides syncing at idle, re-check AND ADJUST @ 4,000 RPMs. You'll usually find some variance once in the slightly higher RPM's.Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles.
I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go (engine hot or cold, no difference.) I have to feather the clutch while keeping RPM's somewhat high to avoid it.
Hoping the throttle body sync solves the issue!
Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles.
I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go (engine hot or cold, no difference.) I have to feather the clutch while keeping RPM's somewhat high to avoid it.
Hoping the throttle body sync solves the issue!
For $100, it is still cheaper than having the shop do the work, with the benefit of the work being done right.
Just looked the Carbtune pro up. With the current exchange rate dollars to pounds... could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.I built this many years ago and it worked great. Used it twice. Last year I went to use it again, and the ATF I used aged to the point where it became unusable. Additionally, it stained the tubes, so even replacing the fluid would not have helped.
So bang for the buck, it was a good thing to do. But last year I bought a Carbtune Pro, like Scott shows in his pic. It is really great. Stable and easy to read. The homemade manometer can be jumpy unless you get the fluid just right. For $100, it is still cheaper than having the shop do the work, with the benefit of the work being done right.
. could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.
Just looked the Carbtune pro up. With the current exchange rate dollars to pounds... could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.