Rear Brake Technique

Nelly said:
Yes completely bonkers concept not to use the rear brake.

Nelly
Click to expand...

Not as bonkers as the "don't touch the front brake or you'll fly over the bars" crowd!

But yeah, definitely use the rear brake...

I really like their spring thingie, would that work on our bikes? I always thought that the rear brake on my bike gave really little feedback, and goes from nothing to locked wheel very fast.
 
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I find that adjusting the rear brake height to suit my
downwards range of motion has reduced the sensitivity to a more progressive feel.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
Thank you! I rest my case.

Now try to sell that to the Troglodytes on FZ1OA Forum.
 
Nelly said:
I find that adjusting the rear brake height to suit my
downwards range of motion has reduced the sensitivity to a more progressive feel.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Agreed, just adjust the lever lower. No need for rearsets.
 
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Thanks guys, i might try that!

To the OP, here is a picture of the setup we are discussing in PM:

the stock spring and the Grave spring do not go at the same place, the questions are:

Are the master cylinders from the FZ6 and the R6 the same, comparing pictures they look the same, but are they?

Will the spring clear the stock rear set? it looks like it should, but things do look tight!

I don't have acces to my bike right now, I would really appreciate if someone could have a look and tell me if they think a spring the diameter of the cylinder would fit over the shaft or if it would catch the rear set!

DSC_3890_zps0cbc9825.jpg


Looking at this picture, the pedal is indeed really straight, although this is the recommended setting according to the manual i might try lowering it...
 
Yes, setup is everything. Mine is lowered just for that reason. At least another inch compared to above pic. It helps allot. If you're gonna brake hard, shift your weight reward while doing so!
 
FinalImpact said:
Yes, setup is everything. Mine is lowered just for that reason. At least another inch compared to above pic. It helps allot. If you're gonna brake hard, shift your weight reward while doing so!
Click to expand...

Thanks, that does make sens...

Anyway, i got an answer from Graves and they say the spring will work on a stock FZ6, since it's pretty cheap i might get one, just to see what it does.

I will report back once i have used it for a while.

Regarding the pedal adjustment, is it wrong to just move the pedal by rotating it on the axle?
I know the proper way to do it is to use the nuts, but i don't really see how it would achieve something different.



Edit: the only site i found that i thought was selling it in europe actually is in the US and wants 50 bucks to ship the spring...
So no, i won't be trying it out!
 
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Carlos840 said:
Edit: the only site i found that i thought was selling it in europe actually is in the US and wants 50 bucks to ship the spring...
So no, i won't be trying it out!
Click to expand...

Where in Europe mate? I may be able to help. Postage costs really pi55 me off, especially when they are based on greed.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
London, UK...

I have been looking around more and found a cheaper place, Sportbike Track Gear will ship it for $20, so it's a total of $37 plus import tax etc, a bit more than i am ready to pay for a spring, but not horrible.

if you have a better deal somewhere i might be interested!
 
I think you'll find that one spline is way too far. Easy to try tho! Dont forget to correct the brake light adjustment for instant on...
 
$40 for a spring, the mind boggles. Have you got a part #?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
FinalImpact said:
I think you'll find that one spline is way too far. Easy to try tho! Dont forget to correct the brake light adjustment for instant on...
Click to expand...

So adjusting it at the adjustment point, or rotating the pedal on the axle achieve the same thing, the only difference is the precision of the adjustment?
Why do they bother putting a punch mark on the pedal then?

Just want to make sure it's not a bad idea to rotate it for some reason!
 
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Did anybody watch the video?

it says in the video that lowering the footbrake makes a big difference. i was just pointing out that the graves spring (if desired) would probably not work with the stock rearsets as it mounts in a different location than the stock spring.


another thought though: Exhaust Springs - $3

what about an exhaust spring on the stock rearsets. it would be much firmer (possibly too firm) and it would be about the right size.... any thoughts or opinions on this?
 
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Carlos840 said:
So adjusting it at the adjustment point, or rotating the pedal on the axle achieve the same thing, the only difference is the precision of the adjustment?
Why do they bother putting a punch mark on the pedal then?

Just want to make sure it's not a bad idea to rotate it for some reason!
Click to expand...


That's to standardize the cookie cutter assembly process so all bikes end up mostly the same initially. Connect the dots and ship it.... They likely have a spec for the clevis length from the master cylinder too.

If you adjust the pushrod/clevis/brake light at the master, keep an eye on the boot and don't wad it up in a knot! :eek:

Something else - folks that BRAKE HARD w/out shifting down are going to get into trouble. Shifting down will reduce the tendency to lock the rear as now your fighting the engines torque too!
 
FinalImpact said:
That's to standardize the cookie cutter assembly process so all bikes end up mostly the same initially. Connect the dots and ship it.... They likely have a spec for the clevis length from the master cylinder too.

If you adjust the pushrod/clevis/brake light at the master, keep an eye on the boot and don't wad it up in a knot! :eek:

Something else - folks that BRAKE HARD w/out shifting down are going to get into trouble. Shifting down will reduce the tendency to lock the rear as now your fighting the engines torque too!
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I will try to lower it see if it improves things.

The only time i really go hard on the rear brake is when i do emergency braking, which i try to practice on a regular basis.
When i just try to stop as fast as possible like that i usually don't downshift, and i find it hard not to lock the rear wheel.
In regular use i don' really have a problem with it.
 
It takes great time&skill to master using rear brake.

I'm now very cautious about using rear brake. Lack of proper technique and experience cost me high side on a street (thankfully only colar bone broken) . Now I'm doing 80% of braking with front only.

When I'm using rear brake (i think) I don't use it as braking device but to stabilize chassis on turn entry. I barely put pressure on lever.
 
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