Rear Axle Nut Removal

[CoolATIGuy]

So I'm trying to loosen the rear axle nut, but having trouble. Using the wrenches in the tool kit and two ~2' long steel pipes as cheater bars, one on each side.

The nut spins easily, but spins the bolt head on the other side of the bike at the same time. If the other side is held in place while trying to loosen the nut, it's incredibly tight. Using force I can get it tightened/loosened to some degree, but it just gets so tight even the steel cheater bars aren't working that well (and wrench is getting bent out of shape).

Also, when tightening the axle back up, it pulls the right side of the axle backwards, and the plate on the back of the swingarm pulls away leaving a gap - how does one combat this? A knee against the tire isn't enough.


Thanks in advance!

 

[Erci]

Have you tried penetrating oil on the nut.. and leaving it to soak in for good 15-30 minutes?

 

[FinalImpact]

On the later models there are "flats" on the axle and it locks into the these blocks as shown here.

I'm not positive how the earlier bikes retain the right side. I have ideas on how to solve your problem but they are not friendly.

You could cross drill it through the block and shove a temporary dowel in it. Well like the non-fluted end of the drill bit. If your axle has flat spots like shown here, make sure the axle is in the detents (I know, even though they are rounded out) before drilling the hole. A hole in the outer edge of the axle is not going to compromise its strength.

You could drive a screw driver in there but I only see that making it worse. Can you get me picture a nice detailed one of the right side?

 

[Motogiro]

The 06 and earlier swingarms have a hinky set up and require some finesse when adjusting the chain and aligning the rear wheel.

I used large slip joint type pliers to hold one side when working with my 06 swingarm. To combat the walking once I set the wheel alignment and chain slack, I would tighten the axle a little and the use a piece of hardwood and hammer to tap the axle forward to keep the adjuster plates tight until the assembly was completely tight.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Have you tried penetrating oil on the nut.. and leaving it to soak in for good 15-30 minutes?

Just bought PC blaster and little packet of Permalex Anti-Seize Lubricant (petroleum distillates) for when I *do* get it off.

Headed to auto store to rent 2 torque wrenches and a real-mans axle nut socket set...

 

[CoolATIGuy]

The 06 and earlier swingarms have a hinky set up and require some finesse when adjusting the chain and aligning the rear wheel.

I used large slip joint type pliers to hold one side when working with my 06 swingarm. To combat the walking once I set the wheel alignment and chain slack, I would tighten the axle a little and the use a piece of hardwood and hammer to tap the axle forward to keep the adjuster plates tight until the assembly was completely tight.

Mucho Gracias.

 

[CoolATIGuy]

On the later models there are "flats" on the axle and it locks into the these blocks as shown here.

I'm not positive how the earlier bikes retain the right side. I have ideas on how to solve your problem but they are not friendly.

...Can you get me picture a nice detailed one of the right side?

Basically like this: Recent image by corsara on Photobucket

Round piece is metal washer, hex piece is the head of the axle. Basically have to hold the head in place on one side while turning the axle nut on the other side of the bike. Huge pain. I link the channel on the newer ones, looks way simpler.

 

[FinalImpact]

The 06 and earlier swingarms have a hinky set up and require some finesse when adjusting the chain and aligning the rear wheel.

Urban Dictionary: hinky
#3 may be applicable! Well if you're bike is Naked. :spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Basically like this: Recent image by corsara on Photobucket

Round piece is metal washer, hex piece is the head of the axle. Basically have to hold the head in place on one side while turning the axle nut on the other side of the bike. Huge pain. I link the channel on the newer ones, looks way simpler.

That doesn't seem friendly at all and may in fact be kinda "hinky". . .

And yes, it is. Adjustment is swift and easy as show here. . .
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/45292-keep-simple-chain-adjustment-made-easy.html

Looks like Cliff is spot on then.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

(1)Using the hole in the axle, I would put a smaller piece of steel pipe in each end (when ready to tighten up), sit on the floor behind the bike, use both feet and push the axle forward as you start tightening the axle.

(2)Or you could have a friend pull the axle forward usng the bar.

(3) Put a MC tie down around the steel bar and a part of the frame forward and put some slight pressure, again with your foot (or a friends foot) on the tie down forcing the axle forward...

And DON'T knock the bike off the centerstand

 

[CoolATIGuy]

(1)Using the hole in the axle, I would put a smaller piece of steel pipe in each end (when ready to tighten up), sit on the floor behind the bike, use both feet and push the axle forward as you start tightening the axle.

(2)Or you could have a friend pull the axle forward usng the bar.

(3) Put a MC tie down around the steel bar and a part of the frame forward and put some slight pressure, again with your foot (or a friends foot) on the tie down forcing the axle forward...

And DON'T knock the bike off the centerstand

Geez, this is starting to take an army

 

[FinalImpact]

(1)Using the hole in the axle, I would put a smaller piece of steel pipe in each end (when ready to tighten up), sit on the floor behind the bike, use both feet and push the axle forward as you start tightening the axle.

(2)Or you could have a friend pull the axle forward usng the bar.

(3) Put a MC tie down around the steel bar and a part of the frame forward and put some slight pressure, again with your foot (or a friends foot) on the tie down forcing the axle forward...

And DON'T knock the bike off the centerstand

Good thinking Scott!

Let me take this a bit further / well if it's not what you meant all along.

With a wooden dowel through the wheel and two tie downs around the foot pegs one could pull if forward with NO fear of pushing the bike forward / off the stand. A wooden handle will bend and keep tension so this helps during the assemble stage. I would imagine bungies would work well too!

 

[CoolATIGuy]

Ok, finally got it off...sprayed with PB Blaster, and used TWO large torque wrenches (one on each side) set at ~200ft/lbs to get it loose. Total cost for the 2 torque wrenches and an axle nut socket set = ~$330 (thank goodness is all refundable DEPOSITS!) Sure made it loads easier though. I'm going to grease up the axle threads before putting the nut back on.

I don't get how they expect someone to do anything useful with the 4" long axle wrenches in the bike tool kit. I guess just so you can pretend like you're doing something on the side of the road and not look like a total noob?

I wasn't too worried about the bike coming off the centerstand (that thing is great), but was afraid I was going to snap something in the back (of the bike, not me lol)

I actually found turning the axle side and keeping the axle nut end stationary easier...

Now to adjusting the chain tension (finally!)

 

[CoolATIGuy]

...with NO fear of pushing the bike forward / off the stand.

Seems to me backing a car right in front of the front tire would help ensure the bike doesn't roll forwards off the centerstand...just a random thought

 

[CoolATIGuy]

I'm going to grease up the axle threads before putting the nut back on.

Is that a good or bad idea? Someone had mentioned lubing the threads can change the ft/lb torque tension numbers and cause incorrect tightness...?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is that a good or bad idea? Someone had mentioned lubing the threads can change the ft/lb torque tension numbers and cause incorrect tightness...?

Yes, just make sure the threads are clean (a very, very light dab of oil on the threads wouldn't hurt).

I do like to put a light coating of grease on the axle itself where it fits inside the spacer, especially if you ride in a lot of wet areas to help prevent rust...

You had a hard time as someone over torqued the axle to start with and you didn't initially have a .5" drive wrachet or breaker bar.

BTW, you shouldn't use a torque wrench for removing a nut, an older "Beam style" probably wouldn't get damaged but a "clicker" isn't designed for loosening...

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes, just make sure the threads are clean (a very, very light dab of oil on the threads wouldn't hurt).

I do like to put a light coating of grease on the axle itself where it fits inside the spacer, especially if you ride in a lot of wet areas to help prevent rust...

You had a hard time as someone over torqued the axle to start with and you didn't initially have a .5" drive wrachet or breaker bar.

BTW, you shouldn't use a torque wrench for removing a nut, an older "Beam style" probably wouldn't get damaged but a "clicker" isn't designed for loosening...

It was rental - haha!

But a couple of 1/2" breaker bars would have been perfect!

 

[Motogiro]

Urban Dictionary: hinky
#3 may be applicable! Well if you're bike is Naked. :spank:

LOL! Deputy Marshal Samuel Gerard: I don't want you guys using words around me that have no meaning. I'm taking the stairs and walking. :rof:

 

[CoolATIGuy]

BTW, you shouldn't use a torque wrench for removing a nut, an older "Beam style" probably wouldn't get damaged but a "clicker" isn't designed for loosening...

It's Left/Right switch-style ratchet torque wrench (250 ft/lb max $100), so I assume it can be used both directions...?

The chain only had ~1" of play on the centerstand after shop replaced rear tire, quite noisy at speed (on local roads can be louder then exhaust almost). Hopefully this helps, although before the tire was replaced I spent days trying to adjust tension and align tires and it was still way noisier than it was a few months ago.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, finally got it off...sprayed with PB Blaster, and used TWO large torque wrenches (one on each side) set at ~200ft/lbs to get it loose. Total cost for the 2 torque wrenches and an axle nut socket set = ~$330 (thank goodness is all refundable DEPOSITS!) Sure made it loads easier though. I'm going to grease up the axle threads before putting the nut back on.

I don't get how they expect someone to do anything useful with the 4" long axle wrenches in the bike tool kit. I guess just so you can pretend like you're doing something on the side of the road and not look like a total noob?

I wasn't too worried about the bike coming off the centerstand (that thing is great), but was afraid I was going to snap something in the back (of the bike, not me lol)

I actually found turning the axle side and keeping the axle nut end stationary easier...

Now to adjusting the chain tension (finally!)

Ah, you need to adjust the chain BEFORE TIGHTENING THE AXLE....