bdevries
Junior Member
Hello everyone,
Quick question - how much brake drag(if any) is normal on our bikes?
Quick question - how much brake drag(if any) is normal on our bikes?
Brake drag
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bdevries
Junior Member
bump.. good morning everyone
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On your 07, FRONT WHEEL, if your still getting 1/2 to 3/4 a "free spin" (front wheel lifted), your ok. Much less than that, its time to start looking (if already cleaned, etc) at new caliper seals.
When I replaced my seals about 2-3 years ago, free spin went from about 3/4 to 4 full spins (currently).
The rear wheel, has much more drag on it wth the chain. The rear caliper usually lasts much longer (haven't touched mine short of greasing the pins/flush, etc). If you loosen the rear wheel, get the chain out of the way and re tighten, should be roughly the same. Simply going for a ride(say 50 MPH for 20 minutes), stopping with the FRONT BRAKES ONLY, then touch the rear rotor (carefully). If its warm/hot, its dragging too much. (You can do the same to check the fronts as well)
Note, the fronts of the S2's tend to (from what I've experianced and read) need more attention to those seals than the earlier 2 piston S1's...
When I did my fronts, I bought them online (again a couple of years ago), they were about $80.00 shipping to my door. I think their roughly $100 nowadays.
BTW, if you know someone, or can get a PO box just over the border(US), shipping is considerably cheaper if ordering on-line than the additional charges they get you for shipping out of the country..
When I replaced my seals about 2-3 years ago, free spin went from about 3/4 to 4 full spins (currently).
The rear wheel, has much more drag on it wth the chain. The rear caliper usually lasts much longer (haven't touched mine short of greasing the pins/flush, etc). If you loosen the rear wheel, get the chain out of the way and re tighten, should be roughly the same. Simply going for a ride(say 50 MPH for 20 minutes), stopping with the FRONT BRAKES ONLY, then touch the rear rotor (carefully). If its warm/hot, its dragging too much. (You can do the same to check the fronts as well)
Note, the fronts of the S2's tend to (from what I've experianced and read) need more attention to those seals than the earlier 2 piston S1's...
When I did my fronts, I bought them online (again a couple of years ago), they were about $80.00 shipping to my door. I think their roughly $100 nowadays.
BTW, if you know someone, or can get a PO box just over the border(US), shipping is considerably cheaper if ordering on-line than the additional charges they get you for shipping out of the country..
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properly oiling and freeing up and stuck chain links can help significantly with the rear wheel too
bdevries
Junior Member
Thanks! I'll definitely check that when I get home. I know some drag on cars is normal so I figured it would apply to bikes as well. I'll check the back too.
Ya, I thoroughly cleaned and relubed my chain a few weeks ago and everything seems to be in order there. Although, the previous owner had it SO TIGHT! I don't understand how the sprockets or chain aren't in worse shape.
in that case it might be worth checking your wheel bearings are ok, just as a precaution
bdevries
Junior Member
You mean put it on the centerstand and try and wiggle the wheel from side to side? When i cleaned the chain i took the whole rear end apart and cleaned everything as well as regreased(of course) it. it all seemed to be ok and there didn't appear to be any abnormal wear and tear.
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IMO, if you find any links sticking after a good clean and lube, its time for replacment.
I wouldn't try and squeeze any more miles than necessary at that point. A chain thrown thru a case (and that has been posted here on this forum!) is just not worth it (besides the potential crash)..
I wouldn't try and squeeze any more miles than necessary at that point. A chain thrown thru a case (and that has been posted here on this forum!) is just not worth it (besides the potential crash)..
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That and what you did, regrease the bearings manually wouldn't hurt. Just rotating the bearing with your fingers and a visual will give you an idea of their condition.
One member had front brake dragging issues (about a month ago). Finally nailed it down to one side front wheel bearing let loose, totally destroyed, cage apart too, etc. It was causing the front rotors to go in and out as if the rotors were badly warped. And that bike had ONLY 7,000 or so miles (as I re-call) on the clock.
bdevries
Junior Member
IMO, if you find any links sticking after a good clean and lube, its time for replacment.
I wouldn't try and squeeze any more miles than necessary at that point. A chain thrown thru a case (and that has been posted here on this forum!) is just not worth it (besides the potential crash)..
Ya agreed. Thanks for the info. The chain was in good shape as well as the sprockets, no sign of odd wear.
I'll try and wiggle the front end to see if anything happens. it all felt solid a few weeks ago when I had it apart but it's worth a double check!
A quick point;
Brakes that don't drag initially but after riding for a bit appear to drag more can be the result of trapped air in the lines. As the air warms it expands more than the fluid would thus keeping residual pressure on the pad to rotor surface. In this same scenario, the air does not retract the pads effectively like fluid does either so its nearly two fold as far as consequences go.
Point being; bleed the brakes yearly and IMO do so by using pressure not vacuum. Pressure forces the air molecules together while vacuum bleeding pulls them apart scattering them throughout the brake system. With air is moisture and neither are induces to a healthy brake system.
Brakes that don't drag initially but after riding for a bit appear to drag more can be the result of trapped air in the lines. As the air warms it expands more than the fluid would thus keeping residual pressure on the pad to rotor surface. In this same scenario, the air does not retract the pads effectively like fluid does either so its nearly two fold as far as consequences go.
Point being; bleed the brakes yearly and IMO do so by using pressure not vacuum. Pressure forces the air molecules together while vacuum bleeding pulls them apart scattering them throughout the brake system. With air is moisture and neither are induces to a healthy brake system.
bdevries
Junior Member
Thanks a lot. Maybe I'll try bleeding them next time I'm at my parents place and have a garage to work in.
Another brake related question(is it possible to hi-jack ones own thread?)
The front brakes have a sort of scratchy sound, kinda high pitch, it's hard to describe. It SOUNDS like the pads are worn out but there appears to be plenty of meat left on them. Last time I cleaned the bike I used brake cleaner on the rotors and never get any sort of lubricant/wax stuff on the calipers. Any ideas?
edit: the bike only has 18000 km(+- 11000 miles)
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Pull the clips, pins, & pads and inspect them. You may have pebble caught or embedded in the pad. Be sure to return that to the same spot as you dont want to have to reseat them.
Lastly - light use can glaze them so they may squeal a high pitch until burned off.
Lastly - light use can glaze them so they may squeal a high pitch until burned off.
Carlos840
Junior Member
I find it is really worth cleaning your brake pistons!
It really made a big difference on my bike and it only has 11500km.
I now have no drag and it doesn't take much time to do.
I followed this procedure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM
Really pump the pistons out until they all move freely and clean all the crap out of them, mine had some pistons that barely moved.
It really made a big difference on my bike and it only has 11500km.
I now have no drag and it doesn't take much time to do.
I followed this procedure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM
Really pump the pistons out until they all move freely and clean all the crap out of them, mine had some pistons that barely moved.
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bdevries
Junior Member
great posts guys! I'll check that when i get home tonight!
