Nail in tire!

Anyone ever look at chaparral-racing.com ?? As best I've seen always better prices.... PR4 180/55 = $181 Take a look!
Oppsee - you listed as pair. I didn't see that till now.

Michelin Pilot Road 4 Rear Tire - Chaparral Motorsports

FinalImpact said:

Anyone ever look at chaparral-racing.com ?? As best I've seen always better prices.... PR4 180/55 = $181 Take a look!
Oppsee - you listed as pair. I didn't see that till now.

Michelin Pilot Road 4 Rear Tire - Chaparral Motorsports

Click to expand...

Yea the prices at rockymountainatvmc are much better. The rear PR4 is $159.99, front is $124.99 with free shipping. Can't really beat that.

[/QUOTE]

I used this kit on my tire as did my buddy on his 05 R6 and nether of us are having any issues. Granted with any plug I do not trust it 100% but after about 2 weeks or more it is still holding good and I do not even know it is still there.

FIZZER6 said:

Yea the prices at rockymountainatvmc are much better. The rear PR4 is $159.99, front is $124.99 with free shipping. Can't really beat that.

Click to expand...

My SET of Pirelli Diablos were $165.00 from Cycle Gear free shipping to store, mounted and balanced. :rockon:

darius said:

My SET of Pirelli Diablos were $165.00 from Cycle Gear free shipping to store, mounted and balanced. :rockon:

Click to expand...

My second set of tires were Pirelli Diablos. I got them for like $150 for the set, couldn't pass them up. But there were dead at 4,500 miles. If the Michelins last 2X as long for only $100 more it's worth spending a bit more up front to not have to change tires more than once a season.

FIZZER6 said:

My second set of tires were Pirelli Diablos. I got them for like $150 for the set, couldn't pass them up. But there were dead at 4,500 miles. If the Michelins last 2X as long for only $100 more it's worth spending a bit more up front to not have to change tires more than once a season.

Click to expand...

But you'll cry half as long when they get nailed!

Nah makes sense. As for my set I have 3k on them so far and there's plenty of tread left.

FIZZER6 said:

I would be ecstatic to get 10K out of a set of tires. The best I've got to date is the factory BT021's at 6K and my current Pilot Power 2CT's are at 5,500 and could see another 1-2K if I wanted to push them.

I'm a bit worried abou the tread design of the PR4 front vs. the PR2 front.

In my experience front tires with tread grooves that are less than 45 degrees off the radial lines of the tire will cup over time.

Look at the difference.

The PR4 is just asking to cup on the sides with those tread grooves being at that narrow of an angle.

I can understand why the PR4 would be better in the rain with that pattern but that's about the only thing it will be better for.

Click to expand...

No idea (it's often a guessing game looking at tread pattern and trying to figure out how the tire would behave and age). All I know is PR2 was excellent and as soon as I'm done with my current set (Metz Z8.. because supposedly it's better for the track), PR2 will be going right back on.

I would first spray the spot with soapy water and see (bubbles) if it indeed poked all the way thru.

If it has, what I carry uner the seat, VERY non obtrusive, especially for small holes, to the tire and cords is a "Dyna Plug" (I do have the black one in the video, the plugs are stored inside the handle):

Dynaplug® Tubeless Tire Repair Tools and Accessories


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng-YQ_NP1ec"]Dynaplug® Overview - YouTube[/ame]

For a permanent repair, (when possible) a Dorman combo, patch / plug from the inside is what I use..

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

I would first spray the spot with soapy water and see (bubbles) if it indeed poked all the way thru.

If it has, what I carry uner the seat, VERY non obtrusive, especially for small holes, to the tire and cords is a "Dyna Plug" (I do have the black one in the video, the plugs are stored inside the handle):

Dynaplug® Tubeless Tire Repair Tools and Accessories

For a permanent repair, (when possible) a Dorman combo, patch / plug from the inside is what I use..

Click to expand...

That looks better than the kit I use. No reaming and much simpler.. mine's actually quite complex.

Erci said:

That looks better than the kit I use. No reaming and much simpler.. mine's actually quite complex.

Click to expand...

I also have the kit where you ream it out, push in the squarish plug with a tool and pull the tool. For much larger holes, it works pretty good. We did a rear tire on my friends old 07 rear FJR tire. Worked great, left that in till he sold it.

I just kinda bothered me, as posted above, your making a hole bigger, hacking up cords, etc to get the plug in.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

I just kinda bothered me, as posted above, your making a hole bigger, hacking up cords, etc to get the plug in.

Click to expand...

Exactly.. for holes from nails (small and perfectly round).. it makes no sense to ream it.

Erci said:

Exactly.. for holes from nails (small and perfectly round).. it makes no sense to ream it.

Click to expand...

I think the reaming is for 2 purposes: To make the hole uniform so the plug goes in smoothly and to roughen up the rubber for better adhesion.

At any rate, I went ahead and plugged this tire and it seems to be holding just fine but I do check the pressure before every ride now. I'm just going to keep it below 70mph till I get new rubber.

I'm thinking I may just get the PR2's. No one who has had them has anything bad to say about them and most are getting over 8K miles out of them which is 2K better than I've ever done with sport tires. I think the PR3/PR4 would definitely be better for people who ride in rain often but my commute is 7 miles and I usually avoid riding to work on days with higher than 60% chance of rain.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

I also have the kit where you ream it out, push in the squarish plug with a tool and pull the tool. For much larger holes, it works pretty good. We did a rear tire on my friends old 07 rear FJR tire. Worked great, left that in till he sold it.

I just kinda bothered me, as posted above, your making a hole bigger, hacking up cords, etc to get the plug in.

Click to expand...

Scott, it appears that little brass widget stays in the tire. If so, why not a lighter material? I mean it looks like brass but it could be just about anything.

So this smaller plug doesn't use a reamer? Just ram it in?

Yes, I also carry a plug kit now - its the folding rope. So far no issues with two separate applications. Both have been rear tires...

FinalImpact said:

Scott, it appears that little brass widget stays in the tire. If so, why not a lighter material? I mean it looks like brass but it could be just about anything.

So this smaller plug doesn't use a reamer? Just ram it in?

Yes, I also carry a plug kit now - its the folding rope. So far no issues with two separate applications. Both have been rear tires...

Click to expand...

Your correct. Just push it in, no reaming, no additonal cord damage..

I also have the other kit you mention. For a larger hole, I would use the kit you have, (thats what we used on my friends, old 07 rear FJR tire(same size actually as the FZ) and that worked fine too...

If the tire has a bit of mileage left on it, (especialy with a larger hole) once home and some spare time, IMO, I'd pull the plug (haven't had to yet), but then put in a Steelman combo / patch plug:

Steelman 1/8" Patch/Plug Combo Kit - STL-JSG381 - STANDARD

Unfortunatly, my last couple of flats (rear only) have been too large to patch or plug. (Since I made that class III hitch, HD, bead breaker!)