Rear wheel lube

Eldberg

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Hi people. My FZ6 now has 6200 miles on it and I thoyght it might be time for some maintenance. Since the bike is 10 years old (2004 model) I was worried that lubrication may have dried up or aged, so I removed the rear wheel to have a look.

Okay, here is the wheel and the various bearings away from the bike. I've taken some lousy photos. My question is, how do I go on from here? Do I need to remove some of the orange plastic or black rubber seals around the bearings? What bits can safely be removed without bearing balls falling out or some such disaster?

All advice welcome.

Åke
 

FinalImpact

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Great question!

On the rear hub assembly there is only one bearing that should be "lubricated" during normal service as its not a self contained sealed bearing. Those having the "orange" seal are typically NOT opened as prying the seal from the bearing often leads to damage and subsequent replacement of the entire bearing. i.e. if the seal lets the grease out that means it can let water and debris in and the bearing will fail. If the seal is damaged, replace the sealed bearing!

  • What is important to know about sealed ball bearings:
  • Is the bearing smooth?
  • Does it turn without roughness, catching, any glitches when pressure is applied and turned?
  • Is the seal damaged?
  • Does it appear the grease is still inside?
  • If all of those are true the bearing is likely OK if it has not been struck or submerged.

In the first two attachments showing the sprocket carrier, those are sealed bearings. If smooth and the bike has never been pressure washed or underwater, leave them be. You can remove the spacer and clean and grease the seals; just lift it straight out. Removing the grit from the seals will extend their life. Their job is to block moisture and debris from the bearings inside.
THIS SPACER COMES OUT
52877d1398275894-rear-wheel-lube-rwheel1-jpg


The same is true of the the right side. Lift the spacer out, clean it and the seals and regrease them.
THIS SPACER COMES OUT
52880d1398275894-rear-wheel-lube-rwheel4-jpg


If you remove the INNER BEARING RACE you gain access to a set of exposed needle bearings. Use great care to NOT knock any debris into this bearing as its difficult to clean it.
Lift the inner bearing race out:
52879d1398275894-rear-wheel-lube-rwheel3-jpg


It will look like this inside: MAKE CERTAIN that spacer inside the wheel is returned BEFORE assembly to the swing are or damage many of these components will occur. See illustration below!
52235d1393972032-needle-bearing-removel-img_20130817_100802_688-jpg


In the foreground left side is the Axle Spacers. On the right side is the inner race which can be removed, cleaned and greased.
Those in the back ground are from the front axle..
47553d1365896746-rear-wheel-bearing-sleeve-_dsc4968hubspacers-jpg


Rear Axle Assembly Diagram:
47554d1365898556-rear-wheel-bearing-sleeve-rear_wheel-jpg
 

FinalImpact

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I'm sure you know this, but it's not necessary to remove the rear sprocket from the hub to inspect the bearings. Well unless you're intent is to replace the chain and sprockets.

On that note I will advise this: If any of the nuts removed from the studs damaged threads to either the self locking nut or the stud, replace them now before reassembling the sprocket to the hub.

The torque specified is 72 ft/lbs for those nuts and it must be brought up in stages in a criss-cross star like pattern. i.e. 40ft/lbs star pattern taking all nuts to 40. Repeat star to 50, 60, and final torque. If there is any doubt about the accuracy of your torque wrench do not exceed 68 - 72ft/lbs as several have pulled the threads out of the nuts before reaching final tq.

Also - thoroughly clean the threads on both parts so there are NO METAL shards from the self locking nut to damage the threads.
 

FIZZER6

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It is a good idea to clean and grease the dust seals on the outer race of each side anytime the wheel is removed. I use wheel bearing grease on the inner side of the seal and silicone grease on the outer rubber portion of the dust seal to condition the rubber so it doesn't deteriorate as quickly. Wheel bearings can be damaged by over-torquing the wheel axle nut!
 

Motogiro

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To clear issues on copyright: At this juncture micro fiche from a parts site should be okay. Not manuals, PDF or picture of manuals.

The policy on this forum is not guess whether there will be legal issue regarding intent on copyright material.

Please see post #17 at this link... :) http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/52611-n00b-mileage-issue.html there is a link with copyright info

This can help keep our threads on the track... :)
 
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Eldberg

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Awesome reply, FinalImpact! I'm completely illuminated. Thanks!

I did remove the sprockets because they are in need of cleaning; lots of chain wax there…

Åke
 

Eldberg

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Here is a followup regarding the sprockets. When they came off and the wax had been removed with white spirit, I noticed that the sprocket ring still looks dirty. So I tried with various cleaners including some abrasives. It looks like the surface is covered with something grayish, like a very thin paint? Does anyone know? If I want to have a nice clean good-looking sprocket, should I use abrasives and then re-coat with something?

Åke
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Here is a followup regarding the sprockets. When they came off and the wax had been removed with white spirit, I noticed that the sprocket ring still looks dirty. So I tried with various cleaners including some abrasives. It looks like the surface is covered with something grayish, like a very thin paint? Does anyone know? If I want to have a nice clean good-looking sprocket, should I use abrasives and then re-coat with something?

Åke

It shouldn't be painted.

When I clean mine (from chain lube gunk build up), I just use straight gasoline on a decent rag and if its really bad, a toothbrush (to get into the teeth), pun intended.

I'm sure it has some coating on it from the factory or they'd all be rusting.

I'd use (and will get some flak), gasoline outside safely (or another petroleum based product) to clean as best possible. I would NOT sand or take off the original finish.

Like most finishes, with age, time, exposure to sun etc, you'll get some color change compared to the same item that's brand new..
 

FinalImpact

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I think its Zinc plated and yes, if something ate through the finish and you want it looking like new you may have to fake it with paint.

The problem there there is time and cleaning products will take its toll on the paint. You could however powder coat it and I would as I have access and the product. But if you can't do it on your own the cost exceeds that of a new sprocket!

It doesn't show up in this picture but something ate into mine (dog wizzzz from Orig owner???) but when it gets dirty its the first area to look odd.

And thanks - after seeing how clean it can be, I see its do for a thorough deep cleanse. Perhaps I should send the bike to Skooter for a proper cleaning! :thumbup:
attachment.php
 

Eldberg

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Oh boy, your sprockets look real nice. I tried de-grease, white spirit, gasoline, acetone, paint thinner, basically every chemical in the garage but those dark stains just wouldn't go away. News step was abrasive with a rotating brush and I fear I have now removed the Zinc stuff. I plan to simply apply a thin layer of grease.

Got another problem: wheel bearing grease. There is a Yamalube available for this. I visited four bike dealerships, including one that specializes in Yamaha, and nobody had it. Or even a Honda, BMW, Kawazaki, Suzuki or Harley Davidson grease. They all basically told me to go to WallMart and get some f-ing grease, any kind will do. Znark! I'm gonna call the national importer on monday and chew them up.
 

FinalImpact

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Both Valvoline and Mobile One make products. Perhaps you can find one of them? http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/grease/74

Valvoline Crimson™ Grease
Multi-purpose lithium soap grease designed for commercial fleets

  • Provides excellent performance over a variety of operating conditions
  • Dyed red for easy identification
  • Contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods
  • Is fortified with oxidation and corrosion

However, for lubricating the seals I would not hesitate to use molybdenum wheel bearing grease spec'd for disc brake application.
 

FinalImpact

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Both Valvoline and Mobile One make products. Perhaps you can find one of them? http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/grease/74

Valvoline Crimson™ Grease
Multi-purpose lithium soap grease designed for commercial fleets

  • Provides excellent performance over a variety of operating conditions
  • Dyed red for easy identification
  • Contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods
  • Is fortified with oxidation and corrosion

FWIW: I found it interesting that short of the MSDS, few websites including the link I provided (FROM THE MANUFACTURE) list the NLGI rating which is 2 for this product.

Do note that Yamaha spec'd this product to be applied to that rear axle needle bearing while the manufacture of the product, outright says its not designed for higher temperatures like disc brake applications. As it meant for high pressure, high load, high shock absorbing protection.

POINT: whatever you place on the ACTUAL BEARINGS make sure it meets the NLGI 2 rating. Many soap based greases only meet the NLGI 1 rating which is fine for seals, swing arms bearings, head bearings but NOT WHEEL bearings. << Hence why Yamaha says to replace wheel bearings and not grease them AS THEY ARE SEALED AND CAME WITH GREASE IN THEM.

Just thought I'd share that bit....

Info Manufacture listed:
Valvoline’s Crimson grease contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods and is fortified with oxidation and corrosion inhibitors for long service life. The product has excellent resistance to water wash-out.
Valvoline’s Crimson grease is recommended for use in non-disc brake wheel bearing, water pump, chassis, fifth wheel, universal joints and other such fleet, agricultural, mining, industrial, and automotive applications.​
 

Eldberg

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Thanks for the grease hints. I eventually found something called Motul Tech Grease 300 which seems to fill the requirements. So I used that, re-assembled the bike and rode a couple of miles. Seems to work.

Tech Grease 300 - Motul

Now, what about the front wheel? Are there bearings there which need greasing?

Åke
 

FinalImpact

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Thanks for the grease hints. I eventually found something called Motul Tech Grease 300 which seems to fill the requirements. So I used that, re-assembled the bike and rode a couple of miles. Seems to work.

Tech Grease 300 - Motul

Now, what about the front wheel? Are there bearings there which need greasing?

Åke

Check/inspect/feel and return = yes. Like the rear they are sealed and the required job is replacement. I know some have popped the seals out and greased them, I personally would not advise this as it deforms the seal which often leads to it either letting water in or grease out.

just like the back right side by the rotor, there is a spacer and seal to keep 95% of the contaminants away from the actual bearing. So unless its been power washed or under water, those few miles they should be fine. You can support the nose and inspect them tho. No harm in that.
 
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