Acceleration and ABS demonstration!

Here's a video I just did:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH_EaCeDU2A]Yamaha FZ6n acceleration and ABS braking test.. - YouTube[/ame]

0-150kph (90mph) acceleration (1-2-3rd gear) and
ABS demonstration from 45mph (65kph) to zero, both
brakes 100%.

Shot with Samsung Galaxy S2 (GT-I9100) and edited with the Youtube editor.

thank you. My fz6 fazer easily blocks rear tyre when moderate braking. Tyre is Rosso II, brand new.

brake pads are oem, brake fluid is fresh and caliper is new maintaned from me. so, How can I fix this blocking? will more quality brake pads solves? (for example ebc hh )

ozgurakman said:

thank you. My fz6 fazer easily blocks rear tyre when moderate braking. Tyre is Rosso II, brand new.

brake pads are oem, brake fluid is fresh and caliper is new maintaned from me. so, How can I fix this blocking? will more quality brake pads solves? (for example ebc hh )

Click to expand...

You cannot fix this by changing out parts. FZ6 has a relatively short wheelbase and a strong rear brake. If you are using the front brake fully (as you should, when you want to achieve shortest stopping distance), it takes very little effort to lock up the rear.

1. Try adjusting brake pedal down a bit.. this helps some folks.
2. Practice, practice, practice!! Do this over and over to get to a point where your muscle memory is so good, your right foot knows exactly how much rear brake you can apply when front is fully on.
3. *Controversial suggestion warning*: Try maximum braking with just the front brake. Of course shortest stopping distance is achieved when both brakes are applied fully, just short of locking them up. However, locking up the rear wheel may yield a longer stopping distance and increase the chances of crashing.

Front-only worked better for me than front + rear on FZ6 (but loads of people on this forum use F + R successfully, so it's definitely possible).

Here's how you can test this yourself:
Set up some cones. Get up to speed and begin braking (F + R) as your front wheel crosses the imaginary line marked by cones. Mark where your front tire stops with more cones. Do it several times to find your average stopping point. Of course you want to try to do this at about the same speed on every pass.
Now try the same thing with just the front brake. See what happens with your stopping distance. If you're very comfortable and know to keep your rear brake locked up until you come to a full stop, you can also try to intentionally lock the rear and see what that does to your stopping distance.

I do that at the end of every ride I take. I have a nice empty road right before my house that I'll practice heavy/panick breaking just to keep the comfort level and skills up to par since in the real world I rarely ever have to stop that hard. I use a fire hydrant and use s rock on the curb to keep track of my (ever shorter) stopping distances.

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JeffSez59 said:

I do that at the end of every ride I take. I have a nice empty road right before my house that I'll practice heavy/panick breaking just to keep the comfort level and skills up to par since in the real world I rarely ever have to stop that hard. I use a fire hydrant and use s rock on the curb to keep track of my (ever shorter) stopping distances.

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Click to expand...

You win bonus points for saying the following: "in the real world I rarely ever have to stop that hard"! That tells me you're doing it right!! :thumbup:

The rear takes very little pressure to lock the rear wheel and I find different boots create a different feel. As stated by Eric the only adjustment that can make a difference is rear brake travel. I had it just right for my old boots but now it feels vague and lifeless with my new boots.
Time to get the spanners out.

Nelly

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Erci said:

You win bonus points for saying the following: "in the real world I rarely ever have to stop that hard"! That tells me you're doing it right!! :thumbup:

Click to expand...

Thanks and also a good thing I try to practice while breaking heavy and trying not to lock up the rear is to also downshift all the way down to first while accomplishing the quick stop. That way in the event I need to reposition myself to avoid a unaware driver behind me or anything else potentially harmful I'm in the right gear to be able to evade! [emoji106]

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JeffSez59 said:

Thanks and also a good thing I try to practice while breaking heavy and trying not to lock up the rear is to also downshift all the way down to first while accomplishing the quick stop. That way in the event I need to reposition myself to avoid a unaware driver behind me or anything else potentially harmful I'm in the right gear to be able to evade! [emoji106]

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Click to expand...

Another bonus point for doing the right thing! :thumbup:

The FZ6 has great engine braking, this can of course be a curse if you go into a sharp curve in the wrong gear. When stopping suddenly it's not always possible to get down to first gear and the best advice I can give is forward observation to try and predict emergency situations. I also feel that braided lines on the rear are of minimal value in terms of rear braking performance for every day riding.
That's my own personal opinion and preferences. Like you I practice using the rear and use both brakes in equal measure.

Nelly

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