Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

twobob1

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As title, it seems that on a really smooth surface like a new car park or fresh tarmac I can feel a slight clicking as the chain is going round only at very low rolling speeds (with gear engaged, if I depress clutch then it goes..I think) Hard to explain its not really a knock although close to one. Just wondered if it was normal. My chain is well lubed and correctly tightened. Not had a big bike before just wondered if it was normal. Its barely noticeable but at low speeds on smooth stuff can just about feel it.
 

darius

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Not normal.

Is it possible that the chain was previously replaced without changing the sprockets as a set? Low quality chain?
 

twobob1

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Not sure, I got the bike 2nd hand. What should I replace? both sprockets and chain? they all seem pretty new looking at them but as you say they could be low quality.
 

darius

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I wouldn't replace anything at this point. If the chain wasn't changed with sprockets as a set, then I would expect some noise and accelerated chain wear. Just keep the chain lubed and recheck the tension more regularly.

If the chain "stretches" at an alarming rate then I would recommend an OEM replacement as a set. OEM is really good and lasts a long time with a little maintenance.
 

Motogiro

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Wouldn't hurt to pull the front sprocket cover and inspect for cleanliness and make sure the the nut and retainer are tight. Wear on sprockets can be easy to miss when it's not radical wear but it never hurt to replace them when you've worn down a quality chain.


Bearings can get a click when they get worn. Keep listening. :)
 

twobob1

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Thanks ill keep an eye on it but I can't find oem chain and sprocket parts anywhere

Edit - I think its this part number am I correct?


5VXW001A0000

Also whats other peoples opinions about the OEM chain and what tools would I need to replace them all? I have most mechanic tools just no chain breaker/linker.
 
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darius

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Thanks ill keep an eye on it but I can't find oem chain and sprocket parts anywhere

Edit - I think its this part number am I correct?


5VXW001A0000

Also whats other peoples opinions about the OEM chain and what tools would I need to replace them all? I have most mechanic tools just no chain breaker/linker.

I wouldn't consider the problem isolated yet, but yes, that's the correct kit part #. Any Yamaha dealership should be able to order it for you. I'd price up the chain and sprockets separately elsewhere for comparison.

Can you see a brand or size refenced on the chain? (e.g. DID or 520/525/530) What color is it? Are the O-rings in good condition? Has degreaser been used on the chain? (degreasers tends to eat o-rings) Checked all around the chain for tight spots? Is there a master link present?

The OEM chain is a DID. My original is still good with 10K+ miles. Negligible stretch. Since OEM chains don't use master links, I believe you'd need a chain press tool. Another member or forum search should confirm. To remove the old chain see if it has a master link, else you'll need a chain breaker or cut it off.
 

Motogiro

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A DID or RK replacement with a riveted master link should be a good choice. You can get a chain breaker and rivet tool for $39 at Cycle Gear. Unless you're getting paid to win on the race track you might stick with the stock 530 chain. If you do the job yourself and have not riveted before, be careful to not over or under swedge the new master link. Never use one of those clip on master links.
Never adjust chain slack tighter than factory expecting the new chain to stretch.
Chains and sprockets will break in but any stretching of a chain should not be calculated like many hacks do who do not adjust slack properly but in fact damage and cause serious damage.
I had a member come to me after he had a new rear tire fitted. He told me his bike was whirring and wouldn't shift right. When I inspected the chain slack I was surprized he made it to my place. The mechanic told him the chain would stretch after he noticed it was whirring. The chain won't stretch. It will cause damage and possibly worse.

Sent from Moto's Motorola
 
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twobob1

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Thanks guys, a lot of good advice there. When I get some free time ill clean up the chain take the front sprocket cover off inspect and maybe take some pics and info on the chain etc for you to advise on what to do next.
 

darius

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If the chain is really driving you nuts, you can put the bike on the center stand and run the bike through the gears carefully. A 2nd person could watch the chain or you could record video. Keep all fingers well away from the chain. Be safe.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Some pic's of the sprockets would be nice to see.

As the OEM chain has no master link, (it's continuous) you have to remove the swingarm bolt and move the swing arm back just enough to slip the chain in. As stated, it's VERY GOOD chain.

Do NOT use a clip in master link.

Either invest in a good chain link tool (mine was over $100 from DID-fool proof).

You didn't post how many miles on the bike / chain.

**Mine, the PO lubed the chain ONCE in 4,500 miles. It was toast at 12,000 miles... Slightly worn sprockets and chain WILL CLICK.

If any doubt, change them, it's a bunch cheaper than throwing the chain thru engine, wrecking ,etc.

Most importantly, make sure play is at 2" total up and down on the center-stand...


** When re-installing the front sprocket cover, there's TWO WIRES that run to the back of the stator case. It's REAL EASY to pinch them when you put the sprocket cover back on, so pay attention. ;)
 
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Gary in NJ

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Agreed, photos of the sprockets would be helpful. We're looking for cupping of the sprocket teeth or other signs of unusual wear.

The OEM wear limit for the chain is 239.3mm for 15 lengths of chain. Remove the slack in the chain by rotating the tire and measure.

I have no problem using a clip master link, provided that it is safety wired.

Make sure your rear wheel is in alignment. An out of aligned rear wheel will cause the chain to make contact with the sides of the chain guide.
 

twobob1

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Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..

As title, it seems that on a really smooth surface like a new car park or fresh tarmac I can feel a slight clicking as the chain is going round only at very low rolling speeds (with gear engaged, if I depress clutch then it goes..I think) Hard to explain its not really a knock although close to one. Just wondered if it was normal. My chain is well lubed and correctly tightened. Not had a big bike before just wondered if it was normal. Its barely noticeable but at low speeds on smooth stuff can just about feel it.

^
was my original post (I thought it was correctly tightened I'm not sure now if it is...)

I have taken the sprocket cover off and cleaned the gunk below are pictures and a vid of the chain condition and sprockets. questions id like some help with are:

Does the chain play look ok? tight or loose?

Do the teeth from what you can tell look ok (its done 27k and I was told it had new chain and sprocket) The chain was filthy and I cleaned it up.

The front sprocket has no play in it form what I can tell but I haven't checked the tightness.

Do I need new chain and sprockets do you think?

Many thanks in advance.

https://youtu.be/pOFAPxBiigM

IMG_7478.jpgIMG_7479.jpgIMG_7480.jpgIMG_7481.jpgIMG_7482.jpgIMG_7483.jpg
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re: Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..

Please keep this on one thread..

Anyway, the front sprocket is aftermarket and is toast, extremely worn. That alone will make noises.

The chain is too tight, should be, 2" or 50MM's TOTAL up and down. I saw about 22mms. Measure at the bottom of the plastic swing arm protector and "zero out" your ruler on ONE PIN, it's a bit more accurate.

Rear sprocket doesn't look nearly as bad but someone fibbed about those sprockets.

I'd replace everything before the chain goes thru the engine...
 

twobob1

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Re: Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..

Thankyou so much! I can't find my post anywhere could you move it back to the original thread? not sure how to.

Do you recommend a complete new chain and sprockets?
Not gonna ride it until I get this sorted.
 

Gary in NJ

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I saw the photos in the other thread - that front sprocket is tired. A loose chain will cause the teeth to get thin. You'll see how bad it is when you are able to compare that sprocket to a new one. And of course, a loose chain will make all types of racket as it hits the chain guard, slaps against the swingarm, and loads /unloads.

DID makes good stuff. Steel sprockets will last the life of the chain...aluminum is lighter but you may need to change the sprockets after 10,000 miles. After it's all installed check the chain regularly - after every ride - to make adjustments during the break-in (stretch) phase, and then every 1,000 miles after it's stabilized. With an o-ring chain you don't need to lube the crap out of it, just keep it clean.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Re: Follow on from possible clicking, Your opinions please..

Just responded on the other thread... Your choice in that kit is fine...

(that's about the best chain you can buy).
 
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