New clutch - Not enough spring-action.

MrMogensen

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New clutch - Not enough spring-action... SOLVED!

Installed a new clutch (a set with compression springs, friction plates and clutch plates).

The whole operation was quite easy except refitting the clutch cover onto the pull rod. I followed the steps of the "2004 Service Manual" (around page 5-54), aligning the punchmarks on the pull lever and clutch cover.
I checked the pull rod lever action and it seemed to work with about the same resistance as with the old clutch. Looking down through the oil refilling hole I can see the pull rod move in and out so I thought I was home free.

The situation...


Refitted the clutch cable just to the pull lever just to find out that the return-spring-action is too sloppy. The pull lever can barely make the clutch lever return to normal position.

Clutch cable was fitted last year so that shouldn't be the cause of the problem. The clutch lever action feels soft. The old clutch cable action was getting hard and rough so I think I know what it should feel like.

Question: When looking down the oil refilling hole... Should I be able to see the whole clutch arrangement + pull rod moving when I push the pull lever (and the pull rod is moving)? Can't really see the whole arrangement moving so I really suspect that I have not hit the right spot between pull lever and pull rod?
Have tried to refit the pull lever on the pull lever shaft but doesn't change a thing - I mean refitting to another angle so I got more room to pull, but the total degree of movement does not change. I thought that I might have been in some slack area but possibly not.

NOTE: I have not yet started the bike, because I am waiting for the airfilter to dry after cleaning (K&N filter).

I know I most likely need to take that darn clutch cover off again :thumbdown:... but maybe one or more of you got some good ideas/solutions before I do?

Question: "Of course" I just topped op with fresh oil... If I put the bike on the sidestand will the oil-level stay below the bottom of the clutch cover?
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Just looked at mine.

Yes, you can see the inner clutch plate move a little more than 1/8" along with the outer clutch plates.

The million dollar question, is the RETURN SPRING on that shaft (that PUSHES UP AGAINST THAT LOWER ARM) correctly installed. Dollar says it ain't!

That spring is really what pulls the clutch cable back with the handlebar lever. That spring, not correctly in it's spot, wouldn't work at all and would definitely give a much lighter pull... Best part is, you don't have to pull the cover off..

Part # 28: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fz6-fzs6w/clutch

And yes, with the bike on the side stand, you can remove the clutch cover and cam chain cover W/O removing the oil..
 

MrMogensen

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Had a long look and fiddled with the spring (part # 28) before I started the thread. Before disassembly I took some pictures and seems like the spring is installed as before - was hoping my error was that the spring might need an extra 360 degrees but saddly no...
I don't think I can see anything that resembles 1/8" movement anywhere (except pull rod).
I will check up on this again later today after work!

When clutch cover was off I remember that I noticed that there was a lot of free space for the pull rod (or push rod as Partzilla call's it). Seemed like big space betwheen the bearing (part # 7) and what I am guessing is the nut (part # 18)... Ahh darn I am late for work now... Will try and check up on things later... (will update this)...
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is the lower clutch arm / lever popping back outwards (pulling the cable back out to normal riding position) on it's own AFTER you engage the lever (as if the cable was attached)?

Also, the lower lever is about 90 degrees to the cable attachment point in the "rest" position. That lever should also have a punch mark that lines up with a punch mark in the clutch cover.

I can shoot and post some pic's if there's any doubt in the above. Just lemme know what you need..
 

MrMogensen

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Punchmarks does line up + just about 90 degrees between clutch cable and lower lever.

If I take away the spring (part #28) then there is no return action at all... :thumbdown:

Doesn't it seem like I need to grab a tooth or two further in on the push/pull rod (with the lower lever/axle arrangement)? = Refit clutch cover...


In spite of all glad that I don't have to drain oil and the new clutch cover seal will survive more attemps with the cover.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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You should be able to simply rotate that vertical rod W/O pulling the cover. Then re-attach the splined lever to that rod.

Just try to make sure the vertical rod "slack" is taken out of it before putting the top lever back on.

If I remember correctly, you shouldn't have to remove the cover to "tighten up" slack.

But you should be able to see the plates (and outer clutch plate) separate looking thru the oil fill hole..

I kinda went thru the same thing putting an 2017 FZ7 lower lever (10mm's longer) on mine(since removed), but didn't have any issues..
 
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MrMogensen

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I am a happy guy - I did NOT have to take off the clutch cover!

I did already try to refit the lower lever (on the spline) to get rid of the slack, but then I had some (stupid) idea that I would be able to simply push the lower lever (when no slack on the push/pull rod) and make the clutch move. As far as I remember I was able to do that quite easily with the old clutch? So maybe it was really a good idea to get a new one!!

To get back to the solution, Townsend wrote (and I already partly tried before), then fit the lower lever in about 90 degrees (when no slack on push/pull rod). Then also fit the clutch cable... and whaddayaknow... it works... clutch moves a bit and clutch lever/handle fells just right.

Thanks Townsend for clearing up this little mess... Really glad I didn't have to fiddle with that cover again (probably never again) unless I keep the bike for another 10 years :rockon:

BTW... you owe me a dollar! :sinister:
 
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