Extremely lopey idle that I can't figure out. PLEASE HELP!

abanger1

New Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
tampa
Visit site
Hello everyone!

I'd like to thank anyone that helps out in advance. I've read through way posts, and cant seem to find anything beneficial. So, I recently purchased a 2006 FZ6 with about 20,000 miles on it. It also has a PC3, two brothers exhaust, and K&N filter. Ever since I bought it a few months ago it has had this super lopey hunting idle. The idle will jump around from 900-1,300. It was really cold the night I got it, so I assumed that the lope was from being cold and sitting. Either way, It started to creep up my skin and it also smelt rich. Like rich to point that after I ride it. My clothing will smell very STRONGLY like it's exhaust. I figured that it probably just needed some new plugs, replaced them, and no change. The old ones didn't really indicate wether it was running rich, but also didn't look old. So, i figured that maybe the previous owner changed them recently to possibly try to hide this issue. So, then I tackled the throttle bodies. I used a manometer and also tried using 4 separate vacuum gages. Still, its horrible if not worse now at factory spec. Plus, it was almost impossible to set the idle before adjusting the throttle bodies cause of it jumping around so much. Whenever it seemed like I got it smoothed out. If I turned the bike off for a few minutes and started it back up, its back to the lope and not acting like it did prior to shutting it down. Another symptom arose while I was doing the throttle body sync with having the bike sitting and idling (with a big shop fan blowing on it) for probably like 10-15 minutes. That it would no longer want to start back up once it was hot. I have also checked for arcing of the plug wires, and also messed with the TPS which seems okay. So, now I'm kind of lost. The only other thing that I can think of is the valves being out of spec with the previous owner riding it HARD. Besides this the bike seems to runs okay down the road. The MPG seems like its a little on the lower side, but I'm also cranking 90-110 mph pretty anywhere I go with living out in county bumpkin....

Before moving further I wanted to get some more opinions. I'm currently a full time medical school student getting my doctorate, and got the bike to save money with my 80 mile school commute rather than driving my diesel truck. But, with having to replace a bunch of other stuff on it like front rim, wheel bearings, steering heads bearings, and whatnot. Its starting to become a nuisance and absorb a lot of time that I should be studying for boards with, and really don't have the budget to take it to a shop. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have restored a bunch of old cars and older motorcycles, but haven't had much experience with this kind of motor or the PC3 (which I also re-flashed). I don't want this to turn into something big if not dealt with. Thank you again for any help. I really appreciate it.
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,991
Reaction score
1,157
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
:welcome: to our great forum! There are so many places and adjustments that could make this happen. My 1st thought is a vacuum leak. I would thoroughly and systematically ascertain that you don't have a vacuum leak. This includes throttle body boots. If that looks good then take the PClll out of line and reconnect as original. There may be a bad map or faulty unit. It won't be the first time the wrong map has been uploaded to a fuel controller. Also you can upload the stock FZ6 map to the PClll and see how it behaves, but for now, pull it. I wouldn't upload a map unless it's a map that has been created off a dyno. Does the exhaust have the CAT/s? When removing the CAT you can create a pretty lean Idle condition. You might cover the exhaust while it idles to see changes the hunting effect. The hunting may be a result of too little back pressure on the system. If the PClll is the EX series it can not be adjusted in specific rpm ranges and so would not optimize mixture in the specific range where needed.
 
Last edited:

Ital

Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2016
Messages
168
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Connecticut
Visit site
My bike has a similar issue but not as severe, maybe it jumps about 100 rpm maybe less but enough for me to notice it. Especially when I am at idle or at a light. Anyway the issue was introduced after I installed the aftermarket exhaust and did the fuel enriched mod to get max hp so you might be running to rich so it should be worth removing the pc3 and see how it behaves.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
IIRC that controller holds several maps. Download and set it to a zero map and the controller will not alter the OEM fuel map.

The other option is to disconnect it.
Take note that you do NOT have to remove the whole fuel controller. Just unplug the clear plugs at the Fuel Injectors and connect the OEM F/I plug back to the F/I rail. Thats it.

My Bazzaz unit allows one to muck with the idle map too. I think the AFR at idle is 12.5:1 or so. Mine doesnt hunt but its not rock steady either but thats because the ignition is statically advanced 6.5° from stock.

Make certain that filter is not over saturated. That will cause issues too. And what did you gap the plugs too?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,531
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
Plus 1 ^^^. Yank that controller out.

If you can smell fuel coming out, short of a fuel tank leak, that's very likely your issue.

As for the K&N filter, as noted, over oiling makes it run rich. There have been many discussions here that the OEM air filter works as well if not better than the K&N, IE, loose the K&N...
 

abanger1

New Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
tampa
Visit site
Hello,

I apologize for the delayed response. I've had midterms all week, so I've been running around like a chicken with it's head cut off. Either way, the cats have been removed from the exhaust. I tried wiping the PC3 and then re-flashing it. Although, I did notice that the PC3 will not stay on unless the bike is running. I'm not sure if that is normal or not. I'll give the exhaust covering a try and see what it does.
 

abanger1

New Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
tampa
Visit site
IIRC that controller holds several maps. Download and set it to a zero map and the controller will not alter the OEM fuel map.

The other option is to disconnect it.
Take note that you do NOT have to remove the whole fuel controller. Just unplug the clear plugs at the Fuel Injectors and connect the OEM F/I plug back to the F/I rail. Thats it.

My Bazzaz unit allows one to muck with the idle map too. I think the AFR at idle is 12.5:1 or so. Mine doesnt hunt but its not rock steady either but thats because the ignition is statically advanced 6.5° from stock.

Make certain that filter is not over saturated. That will cause issues too. And what did you gap the plugs too?


Okay, I'll go ahead and yank the PC3 and see what it entails. On another note, when talking with the second owner before purchasing it. He said that the original owner was building it to be a stunt bike, before changing his mind to using a different bike and selling it to him. So, maybe there is a chance he may of advanced the timing? I rode a few fz6 and r6s throughout the years, and this rascal seems to pull much harder than those. I keep ya'll updated after some more finagling.
 

orient

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2015
Messages
26
Reaction score
1
Points
3
Location
Chicago
Visit site
I was having issues with my Fizzer a couple years back a few months after installing a PCV. Same symptoms as you with a Leo Vince exhaust, BMC High Flow Air Filter, and the fuel controller; bike was stock otherwise. Turns out I was turning the bike on wrong. With my power commander I have to turn the bike on while the fuel pump is priming - that initial whining sound when you first turn the key to 'ON'. If I turned the bike on after the pump was finished priming, the PCV wouldn't stay on and the bike would run like crap or not even turn on.

If that doesn't work I'd suggest what the other guys have said - try other maps, pull that unit out, etc.
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,991
Reaction score
1,157
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
I was having issues with my Fizzer a couple years back a few months after installing a PCV. Same symptoms as you with a Leo Vince exhaust, BMC High Flow Air Filter, and the fuel controller; bike was stock otherwise. Turns out I was turning the bike on wrong. With my power commander I have to turn the bike on while the fuel pump is priming - that initial whining sound when you first turn the key to 'ON'. If I turned the bike on after the pump was finished priming, the PCV wouldn't stay on and the bike would run like crap or not even turn on.

If that doesn't work I'd suggest what the other guys have said - try other maps, pull that unit out, etc.

That's interesting. Wonder why that sequence would change PCV initialization. Have you contacted Power Commander on this?
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Just to recap A zero map should lead to IN from the ECU equals OUT from the ECU with no change.

If you want to disconnect and Bypass the F/C, unplug the fuel injector plug ONLY and reconnect the OEM plug from the ECU back to the Fuel Injectors.

Make sense? No need to yank the whole thing out.
 
Top