Weird siren/whining like noise after chain/sprocket replacement

Johnson

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Replaced my chain and sprocket on a 05 FZ6 right before winterizing it, noticed a weird whining almost siren (originally that's what I thought it was) upon deacceleration at high speeds. Chain is tightend within range and noticed a bit of it the other day when riding although probably won't get another chance to ride for a week or so due to the weather. Any idea what it could be? Didn't notice this prior to the chain/sprocket replacement so I figure it has to do with that?
 

Gary in NJ

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Well my first thought is/was the chain slack. Recheck just to be sure. The other possibility is that either your chain or a sprocket(s) aren't the correct pitch. Double check to ensure that they are all the same. Another thought is the axle isn't at the proper torque and what you hear is one of the wheel bearings.
 

SandyN

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I had the same problem when the chain (make - EK) was replaced but the front sprocket not. The moaning "siren" like noise was terrible at around 70km/h. I immediately changed the front sprocket (Ognibene) and the noise was no longer present. This chain sprocket combination has now done over 40,000 km without problem. (I have also turned the sprocket around once)
 

Gary in NJ

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I mentioned pitch above, but thinking further, did you mix put a 520 chain on 525 or 530 sprockets? A 520 chain will fit on a 530 sized sprocket, but it will be tight.

500 series chain: 5/8" pitch (distance between pins)
Roller diameter: .400" all 500 sizes
Width between inner plates:
520: 1/4"
525: 5/16"
530: 3/8"
 

zixaq

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Most likely culprit is overtight chain. 2" (~5 cm) on center stand, looser than most bikes.

If you changed to a front sprocket that doesn't have the rubber bumper on it you'll get slightly more chain noise than OEM, but it shouldn't be much.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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We (or at least I) assume a chain and sprocket change would ALL have the size components that match each other.

If mixed up, + 100 on Gary's post...

Op, can you chime in here??
 

Johnson

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Maybe he can't hear us over the whine!

ahahahah, touche.

Anyways, I got this chain/sprocket set:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0IKF2G/

Had my mechanic install it, I did check the chain and it did seem a little tight initially but I did loosen it to spec but can double/triple check although won't get a chance to check or ride until a few days if not a week or so (weather hasn't been cooperating and I get home fairly late).

Regarding the rear axle torque causing the sound, would it mean its too tight or too loose? Regardless when I recheck the chain slack I can check the axel torque as well.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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That chain needs 2" of up and down slack. Measure below the swing arm, in the area of the plastic guard.

1.5" will whine and is hard on the engine output shaft.

MANY mechanics make it too tight (as noted above).

Chain adjustment is clearly shown in the owners manual...If you need the manual(PDF), PM me and I'll send it to you..


BTW, it's pretty rare for the wheel bearings to whine, especially that loud. A too loose or too tight axle also will NOT whine like that..


I hope he installed the front sprocket correctly. I believe there IS AN OFFSET... Call DID, they have excellent customer service and confirm about the front sprocket. That chain IS top of the line...

(Admin, below expires in seven days)

 
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Johnson

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That chain needs 2" of up and down slack. Measure below the swing arm, in the area of the plastic guard.

1.5" will whine and is hard on the engine output shaft.

MANY mechanics make it too tight (as noted above).

Chain adjustment is clearly shown in the owners manual...If you need the manual(PDF), PM me and I'll send it to you..


BTW, it's pretty rare for the wheel bearings to whine, especially that loud. A too loose or too tight axle also will NOT whine like that..


I hope he installed the front sprocket correctly. I believe there IS AN OFFSET... Call DID, they have excellent customer service and confirm about the front sprocket. That chain IS top of the line...

(Admin, below expires in seven days)


So is it 2" top to bottom or 1.77 - 2.17? I think mine was on the tighter side but still within spec.

Also what does the 1" in the diagram refer to? Away from the swing arm?
 

Fawlty

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So is it 2" top to bottom or 1.77 - 2.17? I think mine was on the tighter side but still within spec.

Also what does the 1" in the diagram refer to? Away from the swing arm?

The number 1 is not a measurement, just a reference number (1.Drive chain slack)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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So is it 2" top to bottom or 1.77 - 2.17? I think mine was on the tighter side but still within spec.

Also what does the 1" in the diagram refer to? Away from the swing arm?

The #1 refers to WHERE YOUR TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENT.

Two inches TOTAL UP and DOWN (at the tightest point of the chain).

I take a tape measure, center a chain PIN while pushed all the way UP. Then push the chain down (medium pressure) and measure that pin's distance again. That's your total play... Should just touch the bottom of the swing arm..

And yes, spec's call for 1.77" to 2.17" play.

IME, 2" is best for me. Any looser, shifting gets sloppy, (not as crisp shifting) and if any tighter, when nearing the time to be lubed (or dirty), the chain tends to tighten up (which you DON'T WANT)..
 
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Gary in NJ

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Here's the purpose of chain slack....

When the swingarm moves up, the chain gets tight. So when you sit on the bike and compress the suspension, that causes the chain to get tight. Hit a bump while you're riding, it gets even tighter. If your chain is too tight - the chain tightness becomes the limiting factor in suspension travel, not shock stroke. Further, if the chain is too tight or too loose, you will experience premature sprocket wear.

On my cafe racer my suspension travel is actually limited by lack of available chain slack. There is a fine line between too loose (where it slaps and hits the swingarm) and too tight where I loose travel. I actually had to get the bike off the ground and remove the shocks to determine available movement, and then adjust the slack to see when that movement was chain restricted.
 
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Motogiro

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The other downside to an over tightened chain is possible output shaft bearing and axle bearing damage. Chain breakage can occur causing an accident and other physical damage. Wheel alignment can make a difference on how the the chain enters and exits the sprockets which can cause unusual noise.
 

Johnson

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So is it 2" top to bottom or 1.77 - 2.17? I think mine was on the tighter side but still within spec.

Also what does the 1" in the diagram refer to? Away from the swing arm?

So I finally got around to checking the slack and did find a spot that is tighter than others that is a smudge too tight, however upon loosening the axle nut, and turning the adjusting nut in direction B and pushing the rear wheel foward, I don't notice a change in slack or the allignment marks.

Any ideas?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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