Newbie question: What tools do I need for an oil change and chain adjustment?

[Johnson]

I am pretty new to the whole bike maintenance thing but due for an oil change and my chain needs to be tightened. I bought the oil filter and oil but not exactly sure what other tools I need other than the oil filter socket wrench. I know I need a torque wrench at 17 nM, 43 nM for oil filter cartridge and engine oil drain bolt and also a 16 nM and 120 for locknut and Axle nut but unsure what size torque wrench I need.

So this should work right:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335...&qid=1508379166&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+wrench

I think there are enough youtube videos out there for the actual procedure but just insure of the right tool.

I have a 05 FZ6 if that matters.

Thanks!

 

[Gary in NJ]

An oil change and chain adjustment are two good places to start your moto mechanic journey. You can spend a lot of money on tools...or very little. My experience is this; cheap tools will let you down and piss you off, so don't go cheap (cheap as in tools imported from China). I have always had good experience with Craftsman. With that said, I bought my mechanics tool kit 30 years ago and I can't attest to the quality of what they sell today. But 30 years of heavy and abusive use is a good indicator as to why you should buy quality tools. Sears runs great sales, and if they aren't on sale...ask the sales person for a sale price...they'll gladly discount a tool kit.

Brands that I typically recommend are:
- Snap-On tools are very good tools...and very expensive. Made in the USA with a lifetime warranty.
- I've gotten good service from Craftsman hand tools. Craftsman tools are still made in America. Sears also has a no questions asked lifetime warranty (I used it once for a 1/4" drive). Walk-in with a broken tool, leave with a new one.
- Lowes store brand (Kobalt) are good tools. Kobalt hand tools are made in the United States by the Danaher Corporation.

Avoid tools sold by:
- Harbor Freight (made in China)
- Home Depot (Husky tools are made in China)
- Almost any auto parts store...that's where you'll find Tekton tools...red flag

I'm not sure about the torque wrench you have linked. Tekton tools are a brand of Michigan Industrial Tools (MIT). But I don't know if that is an import of MIT or made by MIT - I suspect it is an import. Further, that's a 1/2" drive wrench with a light (for a 1/2" drive) range of 10-150 ft-lbs. Torque wrench/drivers come in 3 basic sizes/variety; light duty 1/4" for in-lbs, medium duty 3/8" for 10-100 ft-lbs and heavy duty 1/2" for values above 100 ft-lbs. We wont bother talking about 3/4 drive. Don't attempt to get one wench that spans a large range because it wont be accurate at either extreme.

With all of that said, you don't need a torque wrench for an oil change. I use a torque wrench for almost everything BUT an oil change. The filter should be spun on until the gasket makes contact with the engine case, and then hand turned 3/4 of a turn. Lube the gasket with some oil prior to installation. The drain plug does not need to be tight. All it does is hold oil in. Finger tighten it and then simply "snug it up" with your driver. You will need a filter wrench or socket to remove the filter, but do not use it to install the filter.

The axle on the other had must be torqued to the correct value. First off, it's a safety issue. Secondly, an over torqued axle will be hard to loosen in the future and can lead to premature failure of the bearings. You can certainly use a 3/8" drive for the axle. The socket size required probably wont come in a basic tool kit, so you may need to purchase a larger socket set in addition to your tool kit. I typically use a 1/2" drive for the rear axle because a 1/2 drive is more accurate in the 80-100 ft-lb range than a 3/8" drive.

Going in the other direction (loosening), get yourself a breaker bar for loosening large/highly-torqued nuts.

 

[Johnson]

Awesome thank you so much. One other thing I need to do (likely next year) is to get a chain and sprocket (both front and back replaced). Will take it into dealer for this one but they say I can bring my own parts, any recommendations for places to buy this?

 

[Motogiro]

Be cautious about purchasing the K&N oil filter as they have have a big recall on that K&N 204 for the FZ6 as well as any other make and models that use the K&N 204 filter.

Here's a link.. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...call.html?highlight=K&N+oil+filter+recall

 

[zixaq]

Be cautious about purchasing the K&N oil filter as they have have a big recall on that K&N 204 for the FZ6 as well as any other make and models that use the K&N 204 filter.

Here's a link.. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...call.html?highlight=K&N+oil+filter+recall

He's got an S1, which uses the KN-303, not the 204.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

He's got an S1, which uses the KN-303, not the 204.

I didn't realize they were different but your right, it does change between the two years... Great info!

For the Op, do you have the owners manual? PM me if you need it as a PDF..

Lot's of good information there and a definite good read-especially CHAIN TIGHTENING PROCEDURES/ TENSION (much looser than most bikes)


Plus 100 on Gary's post as well! Snug or 12lbs ft tops on the drain plug (same on the oil filter)

As for the chain sprocket change, IMO, stick with OEM for the sprockets, they last quite awhile if maintained.
I'd get the top of the line DID O-ring chain, STOCK size... I adjusted mine ONCE since installed (couple years-
they don't stretch much if maintained)...

The OEM chain is great too BUT the swing-arm needs to be loosened (for the install) as it doesn't have a master link


.

 

[Motogiro]

He's got an S1, which uses the KN-303, not the 204.

Thank you for that. Yes I used to have an 06 FZ6 and That K&N 303 rings a bell. I have the K&N 138 on the SV1000s now and I wont be using the K&N anymore. I've read too many failures of the K&N at the nut. From what I understand they changed to a different manufacturer on their filters and that's where the problems seem to have increased.
After my series regulator I will go with a K&P engineering oil filter. Till then it'll probably be a High Flo or Suzuki OEM

 

[zixaq]

For the oil change, the only tool you really need is a 17 mm socket, with an extension or on a T-wrench. If you're using an oil filter without a nut you may end up needing a filter wrench. My preferred one is the cap-type that then connect to a standard 3/8"-drive. The only thing to be really careful of is to not overtighten the drain bolt, which can be an expensive mistake. If you're not accustomed to wrenching, a torque wrench for that purpose is a good idea.

A good 3/8" drive torque wrench is a very reasonable investment for a bike, but it usually won't manage the axle bolts/nuts. Those are typically large enough to require a 1/2" drive. You should also acquire a 1/2" breaker bar to remove those nuts (DO NOT remove nuts with a torque wrench).

Chain adjustment just requires a large socket for the axle nut (34 mm, I think?), and two 12 mm wrenches. You can get alignment tools that make the job simpler, but you can certainly manage without.

You can buy a decent metric kit with a range of sockets and wrenches (most important are 8/10/12/14 mm), and you'll have to supplement it for some tasks with larger sockets or wrenches for axle nuts, fork caps, etc.

Buy good tools. It's cheaper. Bad tools destroy fasteners and break. Use crappy wrenches and you'll be back on here in a month asking how to use a helicoil kit, and you really don't want that.

 

[Gary in NJ]

(DO NOT remove nuts with a torque wrench).

Yeah, I meant to mention that and I'm glad you did. Additionally, always return the torque value to ZERO when storing the wrench. Do not store the wrench with a loaded value.

 

[Johnson]

Do you have a link for this DID O-Ring with stock size?

 

[Johnson]

Thanks for the advice on torque wrench storage. Managed to do the oil change today with no problem (thanks for all the great advice, love this forum!) Putting off the chain adjustment until next week until I get the 32 mM socket and Torque wrench but I am curious what do I use to loosen the axel nut? A ratchet?

 

[Johnson]

Scared the hell out of me thinking I installed the wrong filter but got the 303 and it was a smooth install and I like the bolt on the end. I also have the K&N air filter which seems to be performing well so I am all on board K&N

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you have a link for this DID O-Ring with stock size?

Do a search on-line for the cheapest price, but you want an 118 link (the shop can cut off additional links easily), 530 size chain.

This is what I have (replaced a different chain with this under warranty by DID):

DID 530 ZVMX X-Ring Chain | MotoSport

Here's the stock OEM chain (no master link-continuous but you can install a ML if need be):
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/94582-11118-00?ref=7990d8c0f373a040efca340fab6021cfd4bb0322

This chain, ^^^, is also a very good chain I wouldn't hesitate to use... The stock chain, maintained, will last a very long time...

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can use a ratchet. A typical 3/8" driver is 8' to 12" long, so it might take some effort to get it going. If you stand on the end of the driver and just bounce a bit at the knees, it will go. The correct tool would be an 18-20" breaker bar.

Is your 32mm socket 3/8" or 1/2" drive? If it's 1/2" that driver should be long enough for you to get it going with arm strength.

I agree on the DID X-Ring chain. The only maintenance required is to keep it clean and lightly lubed.

 

[Johnson]

Stumbled upon this in another thread and leaning it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0IKF2G/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2CF4AV9NZN25E&colid=3IZ9LXFZPAYZ0

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the advice on torque wrench storage. Managed to do the oil change today with no problem (thanks for all the great advice, love this forum!) Putting off the chain adjustment until next week until I get the 32 mM socket and Torque wrench but I am curious what do I use to loosen the axle nut? A ratchet?

Either a socket or a box wrench would work fine... Your just holding the axle from rotating.

Make sure you adjust per factory spec's TO THE LETTER..

TWO INCHES TOTAL up and down at the tightest point while on the CC.

Preferably with the chain clean and lubed.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You can use a ratchet. A typical 3/8" driver is 8' to 12" long, so it might take some effort to get it going. If you stand on the end of the driver and just bounce a bit at the knees, it will go. The correct tool would be an 18-20" breaker bar.

Is your 32mm socket 3/8" or 1/2" drive? If it's 1/2" that driver should be long enough for you to get it going with arm strength.

I agree on the DID X-Ring chain. The only maintenance required is to keep it clean and lightly lubed.

Seems like a good value. Why do you think you need a chain and sprockets? Have you measured the distance between the links and are they out of spec? The spec is over a 15-link chain section the service limit is 239.3 mm (9.42 in). Are the sprockets worn/cupped?

 

[Johnson]

The bike has about 32000 miles on it and previous owner changed the chain but not sprocket at 20K ish. Thus I figure I would change them both, chain has been in spec but seems to be getting more loose lately and today I noticed this when cleaning so I assume its done:

https://imgur.com/3JXBeaP

 

[bricksrheavy]

The bike has about 32000 miles on it and previous owner changed the chain but not sprocket at 20K ish. Thus I figure I would change them both, chain has been in spec but seems to be getting more loose lately and today I noticed this when cleaning so I assume its done:

https://imgur.com/3JXBeaP

Yup, that chain is done.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed, ^^^.

It also appears who ever installed the master link tightened one side too much..

There are spec's on how close the side plates should be when flaring the ML (and it's a very slim allowance).



I have the older version of this DID (KM501E) tool and I found it's impossible to over tighten the ML:

D.I.D. Racing Chains and DirtStar® Rims