A few small issues

[vb7prog]

Checking in, bike is going strong, but a few questions, looking for feedback.

Bought bike 8000 miles in 2014,
Currently 31000 miles in 2017

1) code 19 error, when turning handlebars to the right at the extreme, seems to happen on cold engine only, very low speed at max handlebars to the right, engine dies, I previous had a code 19 issue that I traced back to a bad ignition, I have replaced that section and no longer consider the ignition a possible culprit.

2) I am fairly certain the chain is original it was rusty, the bike only had 8000 miles on it and was approx 9 years old. I bought the bike in 2014 and the chain had a wax on it, i removed the wax and started cleaning and lubing chain every 1500 miles or so. chain and sprocket look decent, no spiking of the sprocket, chain is old but seems ok, always seems within spec. I almost want to change the chain just because, but it doesn't seem like it needs it ??? Can a stock chain last 40k miles ???

3) I am experiencing alot of heat on spirited riding after about 2 hours the seat gets quite hot, I have the upgraded comfort seat (I think its gel based, so that could be the issue) without being exposed to sunlight (i am siting on it the whole time). I am worried my cat converter is having issues. I use rotella T shell oil that might be high in minerals that cause cat damage ??? I don't recall my bike getting uncomfortably hot in relatively cool temps 75 F. Any thoughts. I am probably just gonna add some heat shielding between the seat and midpipe/muffler/exhaust. I upgraded the bike's radiator cap to a higher pressure one (doubt that is an issue, but mentioning it for full disclosure)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like an internally broken wire with the turning issue. You may want to start the bike (put a fan in front of the radiator) and manipulate the harnesses trying to duplicate the issue.
Once narrowed down, you can dig deeper.

The RED kill switch is a known weakness (bad connection internally) the older it gets and the more you use it. Gently manipulate the switch
and see if it kills the engine(still in running position).
Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Sympom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.





Re the chain / sprockets, their worn out. Just the mileage, replace them before you throw it thru the engine case. Your also stretching the chain lubrication 3x whats called for. (not good). I do mine roughly every 2-300. The manual calls for 500 miles,OR after riding in the rain. Good call on losing the chain wax..

I've never read here of a CAT going bad on the FZ. Being in Ca, I'm assuming you have to keep it on, IE, no CAT delete.

You didn't mention if you have the stock muffler. If so, that "beast" is a heat sink. I would get some "header wrap", do some disassemble to get to the muffler and put a layer ATOP the muffler. You can use safety wire (or similar) to secure the header wrap to the muffler.

Header wrap, elsewhere, under the eat will help. Legal, aftermarket, mufflers would also help, less mass, more air flow...

I have two smaller pieces of header wrap under a plate for the rear (passenger) seat which did help...

 

[FinalImpact]

Error 19 is specific to the safety interlock. Usually the side stand switch. I have not done it, but remove and disassemble the side stand switch being careful not to shoot the tiny spring into No-Mans Land.
You can go into diagnostics and verify side stand position as seen by the ECU. Look in the tech section at the troubleshooting sticky...

If your chain lube intervals are really 1500mi, yikes... hopefully it gets lube every 3 to 400 mi or so. If not, I'd error on the safe side and replace. I've got nearly 30,000 on the oem and I suspect it may make 40,000!! But I lube it often, like every 400mi.

If fueling is stock, I doubt the cat is bad. If ran rich (more fuel than the engine burns), it will run hotter. Also if your ignition system is failing (worn or fouled spark plug), misfire for other resdons, the cat will be making more heat trying to burn the fuel the engine did not burn in the combustion process. Make sense?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To add to FI's post above, I've had the side stand switch apart before (preventive maintenance) .

I didn't un-plug it, just put a stool next to the bike and pull, the switch, then the back cover. As stated there is a small spring, just watch that.
Inspect/clean as need be, re-pack with grease. As a side note, one member had either a rusted spring (or lost it-forgot). I suggested he used a retractable PEN
spring. Worked out just fine...

 

[vb7prog]

1. Code 19 issue, i actually had to replace red kill switch from earlier code 19 issues, I ended up replacing it with one from FZ6R 2013, so I think its relatively good ? I like the idea of getting the bike in the code 19 error state then trying to debug it, cause otherwise it would be impossible to track down the problem if intermittent.

2. I've attached a picture of the rear sprocket (sorry its a little blurry). I also made a crude drawing. The drawing shows a "normal" sprocket, then my sprockets, then what I would consider to be a bad sprocket. My understanding is that a bad chain will eat up sprockets, and bad sprocket should eat up a chain, so my thinking is just pay attention to the sprockets and they will tell you when chain needs replacing ? I am thinking of just waiting until 40k or spiked sprockets / any chiped sprockets whichever comes first. I will try to increase my lubing of chain interval, but I'm also kinda torn on this, because stock chain is o-ring and is internally lubed so I don't think it needs it as much as non o-ring chain. Plus it picks up dirt from the lubing.

3. I installed heat tape under the pillion seat portion of the seat, and also under the "trunk", where there is a small gap and you can see the exhaust pipe. I also changed my spark plugs from the originals (they needed changing and I read somewhere that bad spark plugs might cause excess heat. I will continue to monitor the heat and see if it has gone down, if not I guess I can wrap the exhaust pipe with header wrap or ceramic coat ?

3.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

View attachment 68227View attachment 68228

1. Code 19 issue, i actually had to replace red kill switch from earlier code 19 issues, I ended up replacing it with one from FZ6R 2013, so I think its relatively good ? I like the idea of getting the bike in the code 19 error state then trying to debug it, cause otherwise it would be impossible to track down the problem if intermittent.

2. I've attached a picture of the rear sprocket (sorry its a little blurry). I also made a crude drawing. The drawing shows a "normal" sprocket, then my sprockets, then what I would consider to be a bad sprocket. My understanding is that a bad chain will eat up sprockets, and bad sprocket should eat up a chain, so my thinking is just pay attention to the sprockets and they will tell you when chain needs replacing ? I am thinking of just waiting until 40k or spiked sprockets / any chiped sprockets whichever comes first. I will try to increase my lubing of chain interval, but I'm also kinda torn on this, because stock chain is o-ring and is internally lubed so I don't think it needs it as much as non o-ring chain. Plus it picks up dirt from the lubing. That sprocket is badly worn...

YAMAHA recommends LUBE 500 miles. Check DID and ask about NOT lubing a chain...
( I've seen sprockets with almost not teeth on them, (chain literally slipping on the sprocket).

Hopefully your chain WON'T Break and get thrown thru your engine case (and it has happened) or cause a crash. But do as you like..

3. I installed heat tape under the pillion seat portion of the seat, and also under the "trunk", where there is a small gap and you can see the exhaust pipe. That's where I did mine.

I also changed my spark plugs from the originals (they needed changing and I read somewhere that bad spark plugs might cause excess heat.Plugs won't cause noticeable heat but certainly can'r hurt...

I will continue to monitor the heat and see if it has gone down, if not I guess I can wrap the exhaust pipe with header wrap or ceramic coat ? Ceramic coating is said to cut down exhaust heat considerably..

3.

See above in bold...

 

[vb7prog]

so based on the life of the chain sprockets (11 years 31k) and recommendations, I decided it was better to replace the chain & sprocket earlier rather than later and risk a high side crash. I got a custom kit for the fz6 stock sprocket sizes and DID chain. As I drove it to relatives house I kept hearing a whining noise when not accelerating , even when pulling the clutch in (to eliminate engine braking as cause), after taking it to the shop it came back with the chain VERY tight. Looking this up seems to indicate an extremely tight chain can cause problems and a winey noise. Almost no play without me sitting on it, the shop is closed Sunday and I don't really like complaining about stuff , so I just want to fix myself, but I have the tools @home approx 100 miles away or have to buy tools to loosen the chain, or wait for shop to re-open on July 3rd. Should I chance it with a very tight chain 100 miles drive then loosen, buy extra tools and fix myself, or wait for shop to re open and complain / ask for adjustment

 

[gulfpete]

Better to get the tools and do it yourself. I'd never go back to that shop again. Check over everything else the shop "fixed" there are great threads on here about wheel alignment and adjusting the chain.

Don't ride it like that, it will cause major problems, it may have already if you went 100 miles on it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That's why I don't have shops work on my bike.

It's great you sprung and got the chain / sprockets changed out BUT it's been posted here NUMEROUS times
about the loose chain tension.

**PLEASE READ THE OWNERS MANUAL, understand it, and bring it with you to what ever shop if need be.

Your NOT the first to have this happen to, but it shouldn't happen at all.

If you need the owners manual PM me with an e-mail address and YEAR bike. I have it as a PDF..

TWO INCHES, total up and down at the taughtest point (while on the CC)


Your under seat tool kit should have the tools to re-adjust, short of a torque wrench.

 

[darius]

so based on the life of the chain sprockets (11 years 31k) and recommendations, I decided it was better to replace the chain & sprocket earlier rather than later and risk a high side crash. I got a custom kit for the fz6 stock sprocket sizes and DID chain. As I drove it to relatives house I kept hearing a whining noise when not accelerating , even when pulling the clutch in (to eliminate engine braking as cause), after taking it to the shop it came back with the chain VERY tight. Looking this up seems to indicate an extremely tight chain can cause problems and a winey noise. Almost no play without me sitting on it, the shop is closed Sunday and I don't really like complaining about stuff , so I just want to fix myself, but I have the tools @home approx 100 miles away or have to buy tools to loosen the chain, or wait for shop to re-open on July 3rd. Should I chance it with a very tight chain 100 miles drive then loosen, buy extra tools and fix myself, or wait for shop to re open and complain / ask for adjustment

You paid the shop to do it right. No need to march in there and start throwing F's about, just politely and confidently point out the problem, stating that you expect them to correct it.

Depending on how they address it, seriously consider never taking your bike in there again and this is absolutely why many of us avoid taking our bikes into a shop unless we absolutely have to. You'll be a better rider for working on your own bike and wrenching can be fun. More money for upgrades and farkles, too!

 

[gulfpete]

The thing is if the shop didn't look up the drive chain slack there is every chance they didn't look up the torque specs.

A couple of things that are easy to check - is there a new lock washer on the drive sprocket? Did they do the wheel alignment?

 

[vb7prog]

So, I ended up loosening the chain myself, the shop probably would have fixed it but they were closed when i needed it done and didn't want to wait for them to open, i usually do my own motorcycle work but for some items I thought i would leave the advanced jobs to the "professionals", I have pretty much the tools to do a sprocket chain replacement myself and the next time I will just do it myself. Motorcycle should be good for the next 10k miles or so, (it also got 2 new tires)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I can't count the # of "professionals" (only because the engine was under warranty), that screwed my bike, boat up worse.

Had one Kawasaki dealer (brand new bike. KLR 250- became VERY HARD to kick start) that it was fine, it didn't have a compression release.

Pulled the valve cover and found the tiny spring popped off the release and that fixed it..

IMO, keep from dealers as much as you can


My old 2005 KLR 250. Part 92081, DOESN'T EXIST per the Kawasaki mechanic

Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts 2005 KL250-D22 KLR250 CAMSHAFT(S)-TENSIONER Diagram

Friggin idiots...

Double click to enlarge

 

[trepetti]

Amen Scott. From my years of finely honing my synicism, there is an difference between motion and action, being in business 10 years and 1 year 10 times, and between a pro and a guy with a truck that has his name on it.


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