How to Change my Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

[beuwiq]

Hi All,

I noticed uneven idle on my TPS & a reduced mpg. I also followed a thread on how to diagnose the TPS

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ls-18.html?highlight=throttle+sensor+position

I came to a conclusion that my TPS isn't functioning properly, so I ordered for a new TPS
Now my question is HOW CAN I CHANGE MY TPS

I checked online on how to change the TPS but all I could find was a Youtube video on how to locate it and test it :stupidpc:


I wouldn't mind doing it myself because I don't think its that hard, but I would appreciate if anyone could give me steps on how to go about it & if possible with pictures

Thankssssssss :Flash:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi All,

I noticed uneven idle on my TPS & a reduced mpg. I also followed a thread on how to diagnose the TPS

I came to a conclusion that my TPS isn't functioning properly, so I ordered for a new TPS
Now my question is HOW CAN I CHANGE MY TPS :

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2005 FZ6 - FZS6T INTAKE 2 Diagram Part #10 is your TPS.

Its simply held on with two screws(off hand, I think torx style) and a wire plug.

I don't have any pic's.

Its adjusted by voltage per the FSM however you can adjust it by slightly rotating it (it has slots for slight rotation) until you get 100 or so at WOT reading off the dash (as shown in the above thread)...

PM sent..

 

[FinalImpact]

Hi All,

I noticed uneven idle on my TPS & a reduced mpg. I also followed a thread on how to diagnose the TPS

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ls-18.html?highlight=throttle+sensor+position

I came to a conclusion that my TPS isn't functioning properly, so I ordered for a new TPS
Now my question is HOW CAN I CHANGE MY TPS

I checked online on how to change the TPS but all I could find was a Youtube video on how to locate it and test it :stupidpc:


I wouldn't mind doing it myself because I don't think its that hard, but I would appreciate if anyone could give me steps on how to go about it & if possible with pictures

Thankssssssss :Flash:

I've never seen a "How to" on TB R/R so you'll be the first.

I've had the TB off another guys bike and its pretty straight forward. Two tools you must have to make it simple - acquire both 3 and 4mm allen wrenches that are at least 6" long. If these can't be found, grab the longest shank of this size and 1/4" drive with a long extension. OR make your own by cutting an Allen wrench and fitting it to a 3 or 4 mm socket.

By the Book you also need a volt meter, but you can use the Diag mode to set it.
Pull the seat, tank, battery and air box. Follow one of the "How to Check Valve Clearance" threads, same process. With the proper tools you have access in about 15". In my album on this site are many pictures. You might look through them... --> Final Impact, Bike P O R N Because the Idle Air Control Valve is connected to the cooling system, you might just go ahead and drain it. It should be done every couple years anyway. Mix 50/50 with distilled water and Glycol. Refill is something less than 2 quarts total.

In this case, I popped the fairing free too (valve clearance check). Overkill for your cause.

Pay attention to how the fuel line decouples... ^^
Set tank aside with Fuel line up as shown. Some may leak from gravity.

In this pic you see the hack 4mm tool to free the air box. With the battery out, bolts removed, loosen the 4 hose clamps, loosen the 4 Throttle Body clamps at the top, and remove air box.

Now you gain access and it looks like this:

Remove the jamb nuts holding the throttle cables in place. Best done from the cable SHEATH side. RETURN THEM EXACTLY TO THAT DISTANCE, otherwise you get them out of adjustment and throttle sticks. Once the cable body is free, twist the throttle shaft to align the cable end and free the cable end. Try not to kink the cable.

View from above. You could just pull the Rubber hoses from the IACV and plug them, but I'd suggest draining the coolant if its close to due. Unplug any connectors to the TB and take pictures along the way for cable routings....

Loosen 4X 3mm clamps at the BASE of the TB's. Now there is next to nothing holding the TBs in place. Rock them until they come free and pull straight up.

Here is the TPS. Do ALL of your adjusting while the throttle bodies are free of the engine bay. As you can see, access is limited by the frame. So, attach battery and cables, go into DIAG and set the TPS for values listed in FSM. You're goal should be to center the highest and lowest numbers seen. I.e. you don't want 25 & 130, shoot for 16 and 98 or so. You just need to rotate the TB with the NEW TPS attached. You do not need the Fuel tank or injectors plugged in. Just the TPS and battery. Make your adjustments BEFORE setting the TPS onto the engine. Verify by rotating the Throttle Shaft and Watching in DIAG mode.

If all goes well you end up with this assembly out on the work bench!

PS - DO NOT drop ANYTHING into the OPEN intake runners! And if you would, please take pic of the intake runner as far into the head as your camera allows!

That's all I've got for now. Take your time putting it back and DOUBLE Check everything!!

IF you have a VOLT METER, you cans SET the TPS properly. Please Advise!
Throttle position sensor:
Resistance 4.0–6.0 kΩ
Output voltage (at idle) 0.63-0.73 V

• Positive tester probe at Yellow wire
• Negative tester probe at Black/Blue

OR - rotate the Throttle Shaft and Verify:
• Fully closed position 15–17
• Fully opened position 97–100

 

[beuwiq]

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] Thanks Thanks Thanks!!!!!!!

Will be working on it this weekend. Will keep you posted

 

[beuwiq]

Hi,

So I finally got the time to change the TPS :cheer:

Thanks for all the help.

I've attached two pictures of the diagnostic reading when the throttle is open and closed. Closed = 15 and Open =100. I hope this is acceptable

The bike sounded better but I still have, the bike is still not firing properly & I cannot go beyond 160km/h

Any suggestions

Thanks yall

 

[FinalImpact]

Hi,

So I finally got the time to change the TPS :cheer:

Thanks for all the help.

I've attached two pictures of the diagnostic reading when the throttle is open and closed. Closed = 15 and Open =100. I hope this is acceptable

The bike sounded better but I still have, the bike is still not firing properly & I cannot go beyond 160km/h

Any suggestions

Thanks yall

Please provide more detail....
If it pulls off the line in 1st or 2nd from idle to say 4500 and just doesn't rev any more, you likely have a fuel restriction. i.e. kinked pressure line from the tank to the Throttle bodies, or rust in the tank plugging the injectors, a faulty pump (from rust), or the Over Pressure valve is stuck (from rust in the tank).

If its misfiring from idle to 5000 rpm, as in uneven, not clear, not steady pull, then you need to look at the ignition system.
This could range from the ECM having corrosion in its connector, a faulty (dirty contacts) run switch, or the spark plug are worn/fouled beyond limits, or even the spark plug caps have come loose and arcing internally.

Look for rust in the tank first and give as much detail AND maybe a audio/video of what it does.

How did the TPS swap go? The general concept was there and its done. Anything notable along the way?

 

[beuwiq]

Please provide more detail....
If it pulls off the line in 1st or 2nd from idle to say 4500 and just doesn't rev any more, you likely have a fuel restriction. i.e. kinked pressure line from the tank to the Throttle bodies, or rust in the tank plugging the injectors, a faulty pump (from rust), or the Over Pressure valve is stuck (from rust in the tank).

If its misfiring from idle to 5000 rpm, as in uneven, not clear, not steady pull, then you need to look at the ignition system.
This could range from the ECM having corrosion in its connector, a faulty (dirty contacts) run switch, or the spark plug are worn/fouled beyond limits, or even the spark plug caps have come loose and arcing internally.

Look for rust in the tank first and give as much detail AND maybe a audio/video of what it does.

How did the TPS swap go? The general concept was there and its done. Anything notable along the way?

Thanks Final Impact,

The TPS swap went smoothly. Also calibrated it with the diagnostic on the dashboard

It revs after 4500rpm
I'm bout to order a set of Iradium plugs (NGK CR9EIX), hope that's ok. I'll check plug caps too

Also I haven't checked the tank and injectors (which I was seriously suspecting)

Please what's ECM?

Also please where's the ignition system and how can it be checked if it were working properly?:eyebrow:

Thanks Thanksssss

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Final Impact,

The TPS swap went smoothly. Also calibrated it with the diagnostic on the dashboard

It revs after 4500rpm
I'm bout to order a set of Iradium plugs (NGK CR9EIX), hope that's ok. I'll check plug caps too

Also I haven't checked the tank and injectors (which I was seriously suspecting)

Please what's ECM? The bikes main operating computer(Engine Control Unit as referred to in the FSM)

Also please where's the ignition system and how can it be checked if it were working properly?:eyebrow:

Thanks Thanksssss

**The way its running NOW, is that different than before you did the swap?

How did the bike behave (good/bad running issues) BEFORE you changed out the TPS?

Did you pull the throttle bodies, etc to accesss the TPS or were you able to R&R the TPS right on the bike... I ask in that its very possible during he re-assembly, something maybe be kinked, not plugged in, etc...

 

[FinalImpact]

The large assortment of wires here - go into the ECM/ECU... The group of wires UNDER the green plug (air temp sender unit).

Disconnect the battery and unplug it. You're looking for damage, moisture, discoloration of the mating pins.

The ignition circuit is: the ECM -> Igntion Coils -> Plug wires -> Spark plug caps -> and spark plugs. The Coils are powered Directly through the RUN STOP SWITCH!!! If its dirty, it can cause issues!

Here is a how to on Checking Caps and Wires...
Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!

Coils and wires are shown here - during Valve Lash adjustment; I removed them. Valve Clearance Adjustment

However, lift the fuel tank and they are AHEAD of the Battery tray. Remove battery bolts to access them.

Still need more detail about what is does properly and what it does not do.
Has it always been this way? Has it ever ran proper?
i.e. idle to redline at 14k?

 

[beuwiq]

**The way its running NOW, is that different than before you did the swap?

How did the bike behave (good/bad running issues) BEFORE you changed out the TPS?

Did you pull the throttle bodies, etc to accesss the TPS or were you able to R&R the TPS right on the bike... I ask in that its very possible during he re-assembly, something maybe be kinked, not plugged in, etc...

I think it runs the same way it ran before the TPS was changed

On idle the engine jumps from 900-1200

Yeah I pulled out the throttle bodies. Did it with a friend so we were careful to plug all plugs properly. Just attached a picture

Thanks

 

[beuwiq]

The large assortment of wires here - go into the ECM/ECU... The group of wires UNDER the green plug (air temp sender unit).

Disconnect the battery and unplug it. You're looking for damage, moisture, discoloration of the mating pins.

The ignition circuit is: the ECM -> Igntion Coils -> Plug wires -> Spark plug caps -> and spark plugs. The Coils are powered Directly through the RUN STOP SWITCH!!! If its dirty, it can cause issues!

Here is a how to on Checking Caps and Wires...
Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!

Coils and wires are shown here - during Valve Lash adjustment; I removed them. Valve Clearance Adjustment

However, lift the fuel tank and they are AHEAD of the Battery tray. Remove battery bolts to access them.

Still need more detail about what is does properly and what it does not do.
Has it always been this way? Has it ever ran proper?
i.e. idle to redline at 14k?

Yes idle redlines to 14k

I guess I'll have to take a video of how it responds. & yes it used to run properly at a point in time

 

[beuwiq]

Tried posting these videos but they were too large, so had to upload it to dropbox

These are links to video clips showing how the bike sounds:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wq6bzrpvwo7w305/VID_20150127_214817.mp4?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/nc14i82he2utov5/VID_20150127_214108.mp4?dl=0

Hope its helpful and clear enough to let you feel what I've been trying to explain

My mechanic suggests we clean up the fuel pump and service the injector nozzle

I just ordered for plugs. Will be getting them this weekend


Thanks for your time guys. Really appreciate

 

[FinalImpact]

The second link is much more helpful. Was it cold as in just started when it went through that studdering, misfiring, blubbering fit where it doesn't rev off idle? It couldn't get caught up to the throttle opening.

We need to know - if you stood behind it in daylight, would you see BLACK SMOKE that smells like unburned fuel???

If that is true and there was black smoke ^^, what does it do when your riding it??? Does it start lurching, kind of jumping or does it clean out and start going as in get caught up to the throttle input?

It sounds like its too rich (too much fuel but I want you to say it blows a black eye burning cloud) and if it does, your path is correct - inspect the ignition system, and replace the spark plugs. Does it get better as it warms up?

You said it has no fuel controller on it.
Follow this link and do these actions: How to change spark plugs and check caps and wires

That may take care of it. I would use CR9E (NO K) and try those. Anything with a single strap ground electrode.

Also, check the air filter for blockage.
And have you tried different Fuel Yet? How long has that fuel been in there?

 

[beuwiq]

The second link is much more helpful. Was it cold as in just started when it went through that studdering, misfiring, blubbering fit where it doesn't rev off idle? It couldn't get caught up to the throttle opening.

We need to know - if you stood behind it in daylight, would you see BLACK SMOKE that smells like unburned fuel???

If that is true and there was black smoke ^^, what does it do when your riding it??? Does it start lurching, kind of jumping or does it clean out and start going as in get caught up to the throttle input?

It sounds like its too rich (too much fuel but I want you to say it blows a black eye burning cloud) and if it does, your path is correct - inspect the ignition system, and replace the spark plugs. Does it get better as it warms up?

You said it has no fuel controller on it.
Follow this link and do these actions: How to change spark plugs and check caps and wires

That may take care of it. I would use CR9E (NO K) and try those. Anything with a single strap ground electrode.

Also, check the air filter for blockage.
And have you tried different Fuel Yet? How long has that fuel been in there?

Thanks

I haven't noticed any Black Smoke. And yes the 1st video was a cold start. I also cleaned the Air Filter when I changed the TPS

Yet to get the plugs. Hopping it arrives this weekend. I'll search the forum on how to change plugs

Thanks Thanks

I'll keep you posted

:Flash:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That engine is either loading up on fuel (extremly excessive) at idle or you have a fault somewhere in your igniton system, major misfire.

In either case, black smoke should be prevelent(when you rev/clear it out)..

Your changing the plugs anyway.

Let the bike idle for a couple of minutes, DO NOT REV IT to clear it out.

Let it load up and cool down. Now pull the spark plugs one at a time and check as one or two, will look black or wet, way more so than the others...

Pay attention to if you hear / feel a click when pulling the spark plug wires.

If you have a spark tester, or even an inductive timing light, you can attach (prior to the above), to each spark plug wire to ascertain you have full spark at idle conditions (where the issue is).

You could very well have a bad cap to wire connection (well documented by FI), but as bad as it runs, it shouldn't be terribly hard to find..

Also, just for S&G's, crank up the bike in the dark... Look at the spark plug wires/coils for any arcing..

 

[FinalImpact]

A squirt bottle of water to the header should find that!

The hot was ones which are firing will steam and flash off. Those which are not as hot (misfiring) will take longer to dry.

Off hand, it sounds like its not just one cylinder but all of them. So this may not be that helpful.

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks

I haven't noticed any Black Smoke. And yes the 1st video was a cold start. I also cleaned the Air Filter when I changed the TPS

Yet to get the plugs. Hopping it arrives this weekend. I'll search the forum on how to change plugs

Thanks Thanks

I'll keep you posted

:Flash:

So what ever happened here?

 

[beuwiq]

So what ever happened here?

Ok!! The plugs finally arrived and have been changed. That's what we have to go through here in Nigeria, you have to "wait" after you make your order

After the change bike was still acting up. Good enough I changed the plugs at the mechanic shop so he suggested we check the pump. Apparently on my last trip I had gotten bad fuel that had a lot of dirt. the filters in the pump were totally blocked so we got that sorted out & now the bike runs properly. Conveniently hits 200Km/h :Sport: :innocent:

Well I'm still happy I had to change the TPS and also the plugs :thumbup:

Thanks for the concern guys I really appreciate it. you guys ROCK!!! :rockon:

 

[FinalImpact]

Ok!! The plugs finally arrived and have been changed. That's what we have to go through here in Nigeria, you have to "wait" after you make your order

After the change bike was still acting up. Good enough I changed the plugs at the mechanic shop so he suggested we check the pump. Apparently on my last trip I had gotten bad fuel that had a lot of dirt. the filters in the pump were totally blocked so we got that sorted out & now the bike runs properly. Conveniently hits 200Km/h :Sport: :innocent:

Well I'm still happy I had to change the TPS and also the plugs :thumbup:

Thanks for the concern guys I really appreciate it. you guys ROCK!!! :rockon:

Glad you got it operating again! Just a little bit of waiting and messing around!
Here's to keeping dirt in plants and out of the tank! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Tried posting these videos but they were too large, so had to upload it to dropbox. These are links to video clips showing how the bike sounds:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wq6bzrpvwo7w305/VID_20150127_214817.mp4?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/nc14i82he2utov5/VID_20150127_214108.mp4?dl=0

Hope its helpful and clear enough to let you feel what I've been trying to explain My mechanic suggests we clean up the fuel pump and service the injector nozzle. I just ordered for plugs. Will be getting them this weekend. Thanks for your time guys. Really appreciate

A quick recap for future reference. A lack of fuel pressure/fuel volume would hinder the engines ability to accelerate as the enrichment part of the fuel map is begging for more fuel, but the pressure and volume drop so it cant meet the demand and the engine misfires.

Please provide more detail....
If it pulls off the line in 1st or 2nd from idle to say 4500 and just doesn't rev any more, you likely have a fuel restriction. i.e. kinked pressure line from the tank to the Throttle bodies, or rust in the tank plugging the injectors, a faulty pump (from rust), or the Over Pressure valve is stuck (from rust in the tank).

JJD952 Fuel Pump causes misfire