07 fz6 cluster not working

[joshk5145]

Hey guys new to the forum and just picked up my first fz6. Knew cluster didn't work when I bought it but need some info on where to start diagnosing the cluster. No info and no tach reading. The only things that do work are the neutral light, high beam indicator and turn signal indicators. If someone could help me get pointed in the right direction that'd be great.
Thanks!

 

[Druff]

I don't know specifics but find a wiring diagram and grab your trusty multimeter. And good luck, electrics are the bane of my 77

 

[joshk5145]

O yea I've got my multimeter handy just not sure as to which wires should be hot for this thing to work. I hope it's just a power/ground issue and not the whole cluster but only time will tell. Hopefully someone has a schematic handy.

 

[joshk5145]

Just found a manual, haven't had time to decipher the wiring diagram yet but does anyone have a good source for these clusters? Or does anyone know if a r6 cluster would plug and play? I've seen a lot of those on Ebay.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just found a manual, haven't had time to decipher the wiring diagram yet but does anyone have a good source for these clusters? Or does anyone know if a r6 cluster would plug and play? I've seen a lot of those on Ebay.

A member just put an R6 engine in his FZ6 frame and had to swap out the cluster(the FZ wouldn't work correctly). Heck, he'll have a spare cluster(not sure if its an 07 thou)-do a search..

So I have to say no, its not compatable..

If you check part #'s for each bike that should confirm one way or the other.

Look in the F/S section here or post a "wanted to buy". Guys are parting out bikes all the time.

Last but not least,
PM Motogiro, or Finalimpact, their the electrical guys and should be able to help as well

 

[FinalImpact]

Scott - just an fyi adding "@" to user name will tag us so we're notified... Example: [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]

There was another thread recently although it didn't pop to life as I thought it would with a search, but Follow this: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/50555-instrument-cluster-issues.html

And when you look at the connection from the meter to the ECM you're looking for Yellow/with Light Blue Trace carries the data for the fuel, ODO, Speed, Tach and all that. In the link above I'd just pull the fairing, it takes 10 min or less and its in your hands for thorough inspection.

With the Tank up, battery disconnected, ECM unplugged and connector in the 2nd pic below exposed, OHM out the Yellow/light blue wire from that harness to the ECM and from the fairing harness to the meter. The value should be less than 2 ohms. If you short the meter leads together and take the reading and lets say its 0.85 ohms, subtract that value from the measured values taken on the bike.

Ideal is likely 0.5 ohms or less using the absolute value (lead shorted subtracted out).

You might wonder through this - not letter for letter the same story but it sure seems closely related....

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/49455-engine-trouble-warning-light-after-8000-rpm.html

- Lift the tank
- Disconnect the battery
- verify all connections in sight by actually taking them apart.
- If its faired start with the connector on the bottom left of fairing.
- Remove the connector at the cluster and inspect it for, corrosion, pushed out pins, burns, broken wires, not fully seated.
- At the ECU repeat the connector removal and inspection.


Fairing connector left side...

ECU is in the middle with all the wires. Also notice inside that boot is a group too.

Let us know what you find....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Randy,

I wasn't aware of that "@" and your usually on top of mosts posts (especially these types) but thanks, I'll try to remember it

 

[FinalImpact]

Anyway - all of the items that DO WORK are just hard wired LEDs. The Yellow/light blue trace wire is a serial data buss. So it carries ALL the information for the analog and digital displays in the gauge cluster. Because the other signals work, I suspect the single wire is at fault. But it could go deeper into the electronics and be the ECM or the gauge unit itself.

While your there perform a thorough inspection of all the connectors to confirm they are not at fault.

You might also check the "Backup" fuse in the right side pod. It supplies power from the battery to keep the clock function running. I'm not sure how critical it it to the overall operation of the gauge.

Other Critical wires to check at the gauge:
R/W (Red w/White trace) = power
B/W (Black w/White trace) = ground to the ECM. Follow to ECM.
R/Y (Red w/Yellow trace) = back ground light. This is powered be R/W.
Y/L (Yellow w/Light Blue trace) = data from ECM to Gauge

VERY import question, Does background illuminate in the gauge lighting work? If it does, you have POWER TO THE BRANCH FEEDING THE GAUGE, but still need to verify R/W at the gauge plug-in has power with key on.

Something I didn't think about; if your meter shows signs of moisture inside, you might just throw it in a bag O rice for a few days to extract the moisture.

Just a thought - ^^


JJD952 - Electrical

 

[joshk5145]

Thanks so much for the responses! I seriously can't thank you enough. The back light does not work on my gauge. Hopefully I'll have a little daylight to burn when I get off of work tomorrow to check it out. You guys are awesome :rockon:

 

[FinalImpact]

Sounds like it lost power. Start by reseating the plug at the gauge. If no help, remove inner fairing and gauge connection, inspect connections and if there are no obvious signs of corrosion, pushed pins, melting, burning, turn the key on and check the R/W for power i.e. battery voltage (12 ~13v). Let us know what you find...

 

[Motogiro]

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]

There is a fuse that feeds the cluster. The wire is red with a green tracer. If there is no voltage at this wire the fuse may be blown. Of course...why did it blow?

The fuse is listed as backup 4 on the schematic but it is in fact in circuit. It's listed as a 10 amp fuse...

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]

There is a fuse that feeds the cluster. The wire is red with a green tracer. If there is no voltage at this wire the fuse may be blown. Of course...why did it blow?

The fuse is listed as backup 4 on the schematic but it is in fact in circuit. It's listed as a 10 amp fuse...

Post # 8 bro :thumbup: What's funny is when you look at the bikes right side (under the pod), the first impression is its spare fuse. But ya, "backup fuse" for "time" operations.

Pretty healthy fuse for little a LCD Crystal circuit! From its rating alone, it seems more important than running a clock for time. Would be nice to know if its alive or open!?!

 

[Motogiro]

Post # 8 bro :thumbup: What's funny is when you look at the bikes right side (under the pod), the first impression is its spare fuse. But ya, "backup fuse" for "time" operations.

Pretty healthy fuse for little a LCD Crystal circuit! From its rating alone, it seems more important than running a clock for time. Would be nice to know if its alive or open!?!

Sorry Randy. Was at the end of the day and I was rushing and just pulled my nose out of the schematic on another post... Derrrr! :tard:

Yeah, I was also questioning that 10 amp. Could easily use a 2 amp there.

 

[FinalImpact]

Sorry Randy. Was at the end of the day and I was rushing and just pulled my nose out of the schematic on another post... Derrrr! :tard:

Just given you cr@p! Instead of the FSM tonight; throw your feet up and do like 4X :iconbeer::iconbeer: of these and relax!

 

[joshk5145]

Looking more and more like it's the cluster. Finally got a few minutes and checked all of the power and grounds that you listed and everything seems good. Haven't had a chance to ohm out the other wires yet. If anyone has a cluster please PM me. I'll try to find the guy that did the r6 swap and see what he has.
Thanks again.

 

[FinalImpact]

Looking more and more like it's the cluster. Finally got a few minutes and checked all of the power and grounds that you listed and everything seems good. Haven't had a chance to ohm out the other wires yet. If anyone has a cluster please PM me. I'll try to find the guy that did the r6 swap and see what he has.
Thanks again.

If it doesn't light and it has power and ground, you might just open it up. Perhaps something obvious has opened or failed. Several of us have soldering and repair skills so that may be an option if it comes down to that.
Any chance you can borrow an oscilloscope from someone??? We could see if there is data on the buss, but the the no lights if the other things are true is kind of a give away...

So you looked at this:
R/W (Red w/White trace) = power
B/W (Black w/White trace) = ground to the ECM. Follow to ECM.
Do these two points if connected via DMM show 13+ volts at the harness when running? Others have ran these w/out the gauge attached. No harm that I know of.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Duplicate post

 

[joshk5145]

If it doesn't light and it has power and ground, you might just open it up. Perhaps something obvious has opened or failed. Several of us have soldering and repair skills so that may be an option if it comes down to that.
Any chance you can borrow an oscilloscope from someone??? We could see if there is data on the buss, but the the no lights if the other things are true is kind of a give away...

So you looked at this:
R/W (Red w/White trace) = power
B/W (Black w/White trace) = ground to the ECM. Follow to ECM.
Do these two points if connected via DMM show 13+ volts at the harness when running? Others have ran these w/out the gauge attached. No harm that I know of.

Yes I did check r/w and b/w. I also checked r/g (if I remember correctly) as another member had suggested as well. I on,y had a few minutes so I unplugged the big white connector and checked it at the pins. Also reseated the plug in the back of the cluster. I will check again with my DMM as I only had my test light handy. ( bike is at my in laws and I left the DMM at home ) out of state at the moment so hopefully I'll get to pull it apart Sunday. I don't think I know anyone with an oscilloscope unfortunately though.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes I did check r/w and b/w. I also checked r/g (if I remember correctly) as another member had suggested as well. I on,y had a few minutes so I unplugged the big white connector and checked it at the pins. Also reseated the plug in the back of the cluster. I will check again with my DMM as I only had my test light handy. ( bike is at my in laws and I left the DMM at home ) out of state at the moment so hopefully I'll get to pull it apart Sunday. I don't think I know anyone with an oscilloscope unfortunately though.

The reason i mentioned it again was that results from using the engine as ground vs using the wire in the loom could change the results. If you do have the ohm meter you might ohm between the ecm gnd (b/w) and the engine/chassis gnd. I recall i tried to do some test that gave sketchy results as the ecm uses a "floating gnd" which not equal to engine/chassis gnd. Does that make sense?
Again, you might just pop the screws from the gauge and open it... mind you it is static sensitive so dont stand on the carpet and crack it open.

 

[Motogiro]

The reason i mentioned it again was that results from using the engine as ground vs using the wire in the loom could change the results. If you do have the ohm meter you might ohm between the ecm gnd (b/w) and the engine/chassis gnd. I recall i tried to do some test that gave sketchy results as the ecm uses a "floating gnd" which not equal to engine/chassis gnd. Does that make sense?
Again, you might just pop the screws from the gauge and open it... mind you it is static sensitive so dont stand on the carpet and crack it open.

ECU ground should be the same as engine/chassis and battery negative. Maybe a possible .02 VDC potential difference because of resistance loss in wire and connector pin but it should be very close.

Does sound like an open inside the unit.