04' FZ6 replaced the clutch, now won't disengage, please help!

spectacle13

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ok, so i changed to an EBC srk51 kit, and changed oil and filter while i was at it. got everything put back together, now the clutch won't pull in (disengage)..... literally feels bound up. wtf?? please help?? has anyone had this happen to them??

Bike is my DD, without it i'm f***ed.
 

PhotoAl

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Was reading a thread on clutches yesterday - they mentioned something about the orientation of one of the covers. Did you put everything back together exactly like it came apart?

Hope this helps cause that's all I know.
 

FinalImpact

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Just so we know how far you got in to it, did you take the nut off shaft (the smaller inner basket) having the clutch plates & springs on it? I'm thinking there is no need to but this gives us an idea what we need to think about.

If I had to guess I'll say either the ORDER of the stack is wrong, meaning the steels and frictions are stacked wrong or the button with the gears on it in the side cover is not indexed properly and is out of usable teeth to move the button which releases the disk pressure.

Also, is the clutch actually engaged as in; is the rear tire locked to the engine or is assembled in such a way that the rear tire spins free? EDIT: also, did the side cover push on flush mating completely to the BLOCK or did you have to pull it in with the bolts? Lastly, according to the manual the outer hat has an actual alignment mark. Did you see that?

Here are some R6 tid bits. . .

View attachment 45535 View attachment 45536 View attachment 45537 View attachment 45538

If you took the nut off the inner basket, that can allow these to drop (balls) and that'll lock it solid so it doesn't move but there is no need to remove it for disk replacement so I think your issue lies in the side case or stack. Pull the cover off!
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Just so we know how far you got in to it, did you take the nut off shaft (the smaller inner basket) having the clutch plates & springs on it? I'm thinking there is no need to but this gives us an idea what we need to think about.

If I had to guess I'll say either the ORDER of the stack is wrong, meaning the steels and frictions are stacked wrong or the button with the gears on it in the side cover is not indexed properly and is out of usable teeth to move the button which releases the disk pressure.

Also, is the clutch actually engaged as in; is the rear tire locked to the engine or is assembled in such a way that the rear tire spins free? EDIT: also, did the side cover push on flush mating completely to the BLOCK or did you have to pull it in with the bolts? Lastly, according to the manual the outer hat has an actual alignment mark. Did you see that?


]Here are some R6 tid bits. . .

View attachment 45535 View attachment 45536 View attachment 45537 View attachment 45538

If you took the nut off the inner basket, that can allow these to drop (balls) and that'll lock it solid so it doesn't move but there is no need to remove it for disk replacement so I think your issue lies in the side case or stack. Pull the cover off!


The kit ( EBC SRK Complete Clutch Rebuild Kit Yamaha FZ6 / FZ 750 / FZX 700 / TDM 850 / YZF R6 ) is steels, friction plates and springs only, he likely DID NOT remove the large bolt/basket as it isn't needed.

Did you SOAK THE FIBER PLATES in oil before installing? They should have been soaked for at least an hour, preferably overnight and will likely drag if not ..

And yes, the clutch pressure plate (that the springs go thru) do have an alignment mark that line up with a mark on the inner basket. Per my 07 manual, the first plate to be installed is a STEEL.

The only other possibility is the the release mechanism. There's a "geared" release rod that rides inside the center clutch bearing. It should be out all the way before installing the cover. The actual clutch releasing shaft (which is spring loaded) needs to go in initially "off set" AFTER the clutch cover is on. If correctly installed, there's a mark on the clutch cover (looks like a upward pointing arrow) that SHOULD ALIGN with a PUNCH MARK (unless you have the KN mod) on that shaft....

*Should you need a Yamaha shop manual, PM me with your full e-mail address(and year bike), it goes into a little more detail with pictures...

Please post what you come up with...
 
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spectacle13

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No, I only took the friction/metal plates out, did not take the nut and clutch boss and everything off.. To those who responded, thank you. although i was not able to check back today until after i figured it all out. some of you were correct, i went through and re-did everything and scoured the service manual.

Apparently i forgot to align the punch mark on the pressure plate properly with the punch mark on the clutch boss. **it only states this in the yamaha service (and possibly haynes) manuals. online how to's will not tell you this!!**
 
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spectacle13

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Townsends, yes i soaked the fiber plates properly, the hash marks are what i messed up on. again because i didn't consult the manual first.....my fault.

however, in the manual, the clutch plate you're referring to that goes first, is bolted down, it doesn't come out unless you take the center nut and stuff off the clutch boss.
just so people finding this when they do their own don't get confused. you start and end with a fiber plate as long as you don't remove the clutch boss.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Townsends, yes i soaked the fiber plates properly, the hash marks are what i messed up on. again because i didn't consult the manual first.....my fault.

however, in the manual, the clutch plate you're referring to that goes first, is bolted down, it doesn't come out unless you take the center nut and stuff off the clutch boss.
just so people finding this when they do their own don't get confused. you start and end with a fiber plate as long as you don't remove the clutch boss.

We got some communications mixed up. I know (as do you) the center hub is bolted to a shaft and doesn't need to come off for normal plate replacement.

I know about the marks from previous posts, interesting that it indeed makes a difference and what the consequences are... Your boo will help someone down the road...

Thanks for the update and safe riding!
 

FinalImpact

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Very Good, Glad it all went back together properly! You have a chance to ride it yet? Did this work solve your problem?
 

spectacle13

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Yes, it solved the problem, after adjusting the cable back in at the handle. it feels great and shifts alot smoother. bike has 55k on it, it was due for a clutch but hadn't started any serious slipping, and no burn in on any plates.
 
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