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  1. #51
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Plus 1, ^^^, on the six point socket.
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

  2. #52
    twobob1 (OP)
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Ok guys I got it off, it wasn't welded it was a piece of dirt ? lol

    Anyway I decided to reuse the original nut and I tightened it to the correct torque plus a tiny bit more and used loctite thread locker. It was blue but it did say for permanent joins it was a different make than loctite.

    Anyway the only thing now is I squashed the chain link too tight and the o rings are buggered. There was no measurement on the instructions as to how tight to do it..I had callipers but was trying to compare it to the chain I took off which was exactly the same.

    How can I go about replacing the link? I do not have a chain remover tool, (I have a cheap bicycle one) could I grind the peened ends off the link and try pushing them out? I really don't want to pay 50-100 pound for a chain remover tool but am guessing I need to.

    Can I even get the link out without damaging my new chain? Also tips for not squashing the o rings? its very tedious keep taking the tool off and wondering if its the right thickness. I thought "just one more tighten" and it squashed them too much.

    Also is there a specific way the chain has to go i.e. a drive direction?

    Thanks guys, I'm a little way closer to getting this done.

    I took the bike out for a slow ride, seems like everything is fine, have ordered a cheap chain remover tool meant to have good reviews and also the genuine replacement link.

    Any tips for replacing the link would be great.

    Also how tight do the nuts inside the axle swingers have to be,(the ones that stop and determine the wheel alignment moving before you tighten the axle nut) do you tighten them both tight?
    Last edited by twobob1; 06-13-2018 at 08:25 AM.
    2009 FZ6 (Power blue) Stock exhaust drilled, Dual headlight mod, Iridium spark plugs, GIpro gear indicator, Front mudguard extender, Radiator guard, OEM belly pan, Battlax tyres, FZ8 clutch slave arm. (Tried to keep everything else factory looking's I don't like visual mods much)

  3. #53
    Junior Member Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Simply grind the the rivet head off until it's flush with the link plate and punch the shaft through. You're gonna have to purchase a new master link. Like we said in earlier posts, small turns on the rivet tools make large changes. The rivet is good when it looks like the rivets on the cooresponding links.

    The chain is non-directional.

    Regarding the the tightness of the alignment nuts, they don't get torqued. Make your chain slack adjustment and then tighten the lock nut against the alignment nut.
    Lifelong student of motorcycling. Current bikes: Custom Naked '05 FZ6, LS650 Café Racer, DRZ400 Street Tracker

  4. #54
    twobob1 (OP)
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    when you say its "pinned" does this mean tapping it with a old flathead to mis shape it?
    2009 FZ6 (Power blue) Stock exhaust drilled, Dual headlight mod, Iridium spark plugs, GIpro gear indicator, Front mudguard extender, Radiator guard, OEM belly pan, Battlax tyres, FZ8 clutch slave arm. (Tried to keep everything else factory looking's I don't like visual mods much)

  5. #55
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Plus one on the above.

    Here is a link that should have come with your chain, chain tool:

    http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID%20Ch...20Inst_150.pdf

    It gives specifics WHEN TO STOP with the riveter with actual numbers.

    **FLARE DEMENSIONS are towards the end.

    Your should be only doing this once, yes it's tedious, but GO SLOW and measure often (or you get a "do-over")

    Just snug the axle adjuster lock nuts..

    Make sure there's 0-ring grease in / on the new master link too.
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

  6. #56
    twobob1 (OP)
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Thanks, I had the flare dimensions ok when I did it but the pressing of the plate onto the chain link there is no set width of where to stop hence my crushed o rings, you only need to go 1 mm over to crush them. They presume you are using the d.i.d chain tool which I am not I'm using an Italian made one that does not stop, you have to stop when you think and its a complete guess. Im just going to measure the average chainlink width and go with that as long as the o rings don't look squished, otherwise its another tenner down the drain...
    2009 FZ6 (Power blue) Stock exhaust drilled, Dual headlight mod, Iridium spark plugs, GIpro gear indicator, Front mudguard extender, Radiator guard, OEM belly pan, Battlax tyres, FZ8 clutch slave arm. (Tried to keep everything else factory looking's I don't like visual mods much)

  7. #57
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Yes I do have the DID tool, BUT, don't worry about the LINK WIDTH, PERIOD..

    Assemble as you did before, once the rivet tool starts doing it's job the ML plate isn't going anywhere.

    Squash and MEASURE the RIVET WIDTH FLARE ONLY, again, go slow, measure often.. You have the rivet width spec's now.




    BTW, the DID tool I have (KM501E), I didn't know it would stop on it's own. I snuck up on the spec's and realized it was 'bottomed out" with no more to go.

    Only used it twice on my current chain and previous DID chain (I mentioned earlier the x-rings failed and DID replaced it way outside warranty)

    https://www.denniskirk.com/product/m...&mediaId=81685

    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-13-2018 at 04:30 PM.
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

  8. #58
    twobob1 (OP)
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    On my tool there are two steps, pressing the plate onto the link together - which you can easily overdo with my tool.

    Second step is a different screw that you insert to flair with. I measured the flare widths on both studs bang on when I did it - that wasn't the issue. The issue was I had initially overdone squashing the plate onto the link and damaged the o rings by squeezing them too tight.

    the green lines I have no problem flaring, the red arrow shows I have no specs telling me this measurement, And with my tool its guessing.

    Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?-aa-jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?-img_7573-jpg  
    Last edited by twobob1; 06-14-2018 at 02:31 AM.
    2009 FZ6 (Power blue) Stock exhaust drilled, Dual headlight mod, Iridium spark plugs, GIpro gear indicator, Front mudguard extender, Radiator guard, OEM belly pan, Battlax tyres, FZ8 clutch slave arm. (Tried to keep everything else factory looking's I don't like visual mods much)

  9. #59
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    Wow I'm still amazed when I see this kind of "ghetto engineering".

    Well... at least there's no accidental sprocket loosening making the chain break the crankcase (seen that one too).

    I'd advice against using an angle grinder- better stay with a dremel or a drill with one of those thin grinding stone bit ends.
    2004 FZ6 with R6 Fork and brakes, Leo Vince SBK Carbon Exhaust, Venhill SS Race brake lines

  10. #60
    2007 FZ6 TownsendsFJR1300's Avatar
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    Re: Anyone have a slight clicking feeling at low speed in 1-2nd gear?

    There is NO spec's for the chain LINK width. Please re-read the PDF, it's NOT necessary

    Simply get the side plate on then tighten (back and forth to each rivet) until your at spec's.

    Once the rivets are at spec, STOP... Your done... The rivet width sets how far in the ML, outside plate is.

    If you simply push the plate (not riveted yet), on too far, gently pry it out with an appropriate screw driver in the ,middle of the link..(Don't damage the O-rings).
    Scott
    2007 Yamaha FZ6- BD43 headlight mod, PIAA bulbs, Stebal air horn, Scorpion SS pipes-(no DB killers), Speedohealer, HEL SS brake lines, Fenda Extenda, K&P SS re-usable oil filter, custom mounted BMW style electrical outlet(L.S.), Techmount GPS mount with handlebar bar risers/set backs, additional helmet lock, custom mod'ed seat(Spencers), Hyper light-rear running/brake light, custom radiator/fan protector, Techspec tank pads, Grip Puppies, Yamaha rear rack with custom aluminum flat rack.

 

 
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