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  1. #1
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Arrow Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    So here’s the deal, I wasn't going blab away about having these fork on until I rode the bike and had something to share. That time has come and what i can say is this is a remarkable improvement over the stock forks and springs in terms of overall ride quality and response! The first time I rode the FZ back in March of last year I was not digging the nose dive and instability in the corners when the surface irregularities upsets the bikes trajectory. Changing to these forks (even with their stock springs) is worth the time effort and money to do! And when done, you'll have a hard time getting off the bike!!!

    Yes, you have to gather parts! Yes you have to take things apart. But its only about 3 to 4 hours of work tops. I put some fleebay 2004 R6 forks in the 08 FZ. Gone is the nose dive while braking, gone is buck of having the two ends of the bike do separate iterations over the same bump or divot in the road. It does add a bit of chop to the front but from riding other sport bikes with better engineered running gear, I’m going to say this is normal and par for the course! It is a Yamaha flagship bike they came from. The fact that the FZ is a bit heavier – well I’d guess it’s fair to say we may use up a bit more suspension travel.

    Braking: Tonight I did several tests of max braking effort and its SOOOOOO good! I had the tire at a slow roll with smoke coming off it and I didn't feel like we as a unit were going to face plant! My braking distance was short and effective! Remarkable to say the least! Thankfully my new tires are not on yet so I wasn't wasting good tread!!!

    Braking in the corners: I found that corner braking is very smooth now. Before nose dive would sometimes upset my line forcing corrections (which we do automatically as the steering angle changes). Now its unnoticeable other than the speed change from braking itself.

    Bumps: yes, you feel allot more as the nose isn't in this "bouncing floating motion". There is feedback and the nose is nicely planted. It’s not trying to run off the road when hitting bumps in the corners. It’s very smooth and more fluent with the rears actions over the same bumps.

    Divots or sinkholes: The same as bumps; its predictable but firm. It seems to behave at the same rate as the rear now. That is; the bike as a unit goes up and down. Before the nose would float over sinkholes while it seemed the back would track with the ground. In short you get the same feeling from both ends of the bike as if they are closer to a matched in rates while going over irregular terrain.


    Rough roads: It simply stays planted and in contact with the road offering better feel but certainly not jarring or anything like that. I know I had one spot where stock forks would nearly bottom out. I hit that same area and its much more controlled.

    From the initial install I had the compression and rebound dampening centered; After hitting some larger bumps I felt it could have absorbed them better and I pulled over and backed out the compression dampening 1 full turn (4clicks) to soften it. Also I assembled it with 10wt oil which may not be needed but thats what I had as I was preparing for spring changing when screaming deal came along so I may need to put 5wt oil in it to soften it a little more but frankly it’s too soon to tell in 30 miles of playing.

    In short; if you ride aggressively or ride 2 up do something with the forks so its not so squirrely.

    Overall I give this 2 up as good thing to do to the bike as it simply rides better and is more fun to ride! Not because its different, but because it is an improvement!

    There isn't much to see but here are a couple pictures in the dark. . .



    If something more comes to mind, I'll write but you get the idea. For about $250 USD and allot of patients on fleebay - good deals come along and thats what I waited for.

    EDIT: 2014 - 04 since installing these the following is my basic setup:
    7.5 wt oil - stock is 5 wt and it allow the forks quicker reaction time. 10 wt you will feel more road jarring.
    8mm - stanchion tubes above triple. Turn in is sweet and predictable. Stability at 2x legal highway is not an issue.
    34.5/37 psi is a good balance. Don't get under 33 in the front.
    SAG 32/29 mm front/rear
    FZ1 bars, spider grips
    Rear shock - revalved R1 with adjustable comp/rebound, & preload - http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-m...ock-w-pic.html
    That's about it! Bike is very flickable and blast to ride. With this setup we've seen it all, front out, back out, sliding over gravel and she recovers nicely with the proper inputs. Fork Mod FTW!
    Last edited by FinalImpact; 04-05-2014 at 01:47 PM. Reason: Fork Mod FTW!
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  2. Thanks PhotoAl, Cali rider, jtarkany, pascal1973, AngelFZ, bd43, rdrManny thanked for this post
  3. #2
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    Technical details for those who made it through the first post...

    Holding spot for now. . . . I"ll be back. MONTHS LATER - he fills in the blank spot with a post from another thread . . . . 2012-05-11

    My fleebay R6 Forks:
    **********************************

    First thing to do is to dump the oil and get some fresh oil in there. Its pretty clean for 3000 mile forks. It has a gray haze to it and blackness at the beakers bottom. Some metallic bits. . .
    Spec says 490mL should have come out. I got 470mL.
    Another observation is that the coil spring winding is supposed to be wound tighter at the top. Nada - equal throughout the entire coil.
    As found:
    Coil Dia= 4.72mm 0.186"
    Coil spacing = 9.26mm .366" between coils
    Free length = 252mm spec: >244 <249 (9.81" - 9.62")
    Coil count: 7coils/10cm or 17 coils not counting ground ends.
    REFILL: hahaha magically the 1 pint bottle is 473mL
    Without the spring and spacers and washers in the way and with the tube collapsed it should measure from the top 106 mm (4.17 in).

    Attachment 40352 Attachment 40353 Attachment 40354

    My hi-tech tool to keep the dampening rod from dissipering. Also notice how thin the washer is that bucks the load of the spring (right under the cap).
    Attachment 40359 Attachment 40360


    So i have to ask; have the springs been replaced? The cap has been wrenched on (before I got them) and there is lint balls in the caps threads. Would Yamaha leave lint balls? I'm glad I looked and at least we kinda have a starting point if I do end up swapping springs later.

    Oh - going back in is 10wt oil cause I think that's what we need for me plus gear + bike + style. Book calls for 05wt but our beloved FZ is nealry 100lb heavier than the R6. . .
    As for cleaning; I grabbed an extra pint of oil to cycle through and rinse, shake and loosen the sediment. It seem to be working. Also, leaving the fork upright allows oil to drain from the valving and pool so it can be dumped out. Leaving it inverted traps it and nothing really drains once a bulk of the oil has been dumped. So let them sit and then dump out what pools in the bottom a couple times and then invert them to let the debris seep out.

    You really want to pay attention to the measurement of the jamb nut to the dampening rod (11 mm (0.43 in)). The distance is critical so the rebound adjustment is the same between the two forks and centered for full range of use. I didn't take a picture of it, but there is an aluminum rod inside of the dampening rod that moves up and down controlling the rebound when the adjuster in the cap is turned. Once the nut is at 11mm, tighten the BLUE collar onto the jamb nut so it doesn't move in relation to the rods end.

    Last little note on this topic; you must apply mild pressure on the cap to engage the caps threads when mating the two together. At least the R's have a dampening rod so it can't go flying across the room!

    EDIT: On 2012-02-19, installed R6 forks
    **********************************
    Finally checked the sag on the front and rear suspension right before removing the stock forks and replacing them. Sag is a simple measurement of suspension fully extended vs the suspension at its average height after being settled from both an extended position and a compression return. You average the 2 numbers it settled at to remove stiction which is the drag of all of the components. Sag = "difference from fully extended" - "average settled height".

    Anyway my 08 with 8k miles on it came in like this with me at 188lbs w/out gear:
    Front sag = 43mm (compresses 1.7" from me sitting on it)
    Rear sag = 29mm (compresses 1.1" from me sitting on it)


    R6 forks installed:
    Front sag = 31mm and adjustable +/-20mm
    Rear sag 29mm


    Several articles say that 25 to 35mm is good for the street while racing applications head closer to 20 to 25mm. So this is my starting point for this season and to be adjusted as needed. . .

    As you can see the stock front springs are dropping a good deal just from me sitting on it and its soft progressive rates compress easily hence the higher numeric stag# in the front. Having it closer to matching (from 43 to > 31) should make it take bumps and surface imperfections in the corners much better if both ends of the bike have closer to the same sag.


    A 2004 R6 was the doner bike with 3400 miles on it. The rates for the front are:
    Spring rate K1: ___________8.3 N/mm (0.83 kg/mm, 46.49 lb/in)

    vrs stock FZ6 dual rate of:
    Spring rate K1: __________7.40 N/mm (42.25 lb/in) (0.75 kgf/mm)
    Spring rate K2: __________11.80 N/mm (67.38 lb/in) (1.20 kgf/mm)

    What does all this mean: The FZ has 5.1" of travel. The second rate comes into play near the end of those 5" when the nose is diving hard under braking (1.20 kgf/mm). The stock FZ springs use up a good 3.5" of travel over minor bumps and braking. I've measured it with a zip tie and found 4" of travel consumed on basically smooth surfaces. . . No wonder it feels like we're going to fly over the bars!
    I know I may end up swapping springs but these forks make it easy to dial in the sag as well as adjust both compression dampening and rebound dampening. Time will tell where we land with the springs. . . How will this impact cornering; with less initial rake from the nose being higher it will change how it feels. However, these forks are a 1/2" shorter 12.5mm. SOoooooooo, if you were to look at the sag vrs ride height -the numbers really come back to the same numbers in terms of rake or angle on the nose because the relationship of the steering head to the axle is very near the same as it was with the softer springs (@43mm) vs 31mm (& shorter forks 12.5mm). Make sense?

    EDIT UPDATE:
    2012-05-12 No need to swap springs for me. I finally weighed my gear / full leathers, boots, helmet and gloves = 22lbs So I'm happy with the setup as is with 186+22 = 208lbs with a spring rate of 0.83kg/mm. Well that is if they are the stock springs.

    Again, if someone could measure their springs while you have them apart, that would be great! tks

    JJD952
    Last edited by FinalImpact; 02-18-2013 at 03:11 PM. Reason: Added Tag so i could find this again JJD952
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  4. #3
    Junior Member red_rock_beetle's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    how much lower does it make it?i cant afford to lose much
    :BLAA:
    Zach
    感動


    "Texas can be like another country ..." HELLGATE

    http://www.facebook.com/zach.griffin1

  5. #4
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    The forks themselves are a 1/2" shorter. But that doesn't really make it 1/2" lower.

    Factory FZ sag was:
    44mm in the nose
    29mm in the rear (IIRC)

    Adjusting the R6 forks:
    31mm in the nose.

    Roughly speaking, its the same as it was with 190lb me on it. Give or take a mm. But the performance is where it should be now!
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  6. #5
    Broke-zillionaire SweaterDude's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    are you still running the stock rear set up?
    This Turkey Don't Jive

    "It's better to be a [email protected] than a [email protected]"
    "3's a crowd, 4 is a rally."
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  7. #6
    FinalImpact (OP)
    2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone FinalImpact's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    Haven't done anything to the back yet. . . Its stock.
    08 Raven w/a few mods...
    R6 Forks, R1 Rear Shock (revalved), 6 Ignition Advance, S1 CAT free Header, SS Mid-Pipe, 2Bro Exhaust, AIS block off plates, Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller & Z-AFM Data Logger, Air Box mod, CR10E Plugs, 48-Tooth Rear Sprocket, FZ1 Bars, Spider Grips, Adj levers, Powder Coated -Triple, Bars & Rear Sets, Solid mounted rear-sets w/knurled pegs, Dual Headlight, Tail Tidy, LED Combo Brake & Directionals, LED POD lights & Tinted PUIG Wind Screen!

  8. #7
    Junior Member Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    Looks sweet and sounds like a worthwhile upgrade! I'll have to start watching fleabay. More money for more mods. My wife is gonna kill me! :BLAA:

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  10. #8
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    Try dropping the forks though the triple 6mm, that will make the front even easier turning in, you won't loose high speed stability either.

  11. #9
    THAT guy visions's Avatar
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    By far the best upgrade I've done.


    Two questions,

    1. Do you notice instability at 100mph+ (I did but then lowered my forks a little and it helped, I think my wheel may need to be balanced)

    2. Is your brake lever much harder to squeeze? Mine is, but my pads before were almost done so I'm sure they were easier to squeeze than normal
    what do you mean i can't use the bike lane?

  12. #10
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    Re: Best investment EVER R6 Forks! Rides so Nice......

    This is something I should look into!! I like the write up!

    Does the FZ-6 Trippel work with the R6 Forks and what about the hub bolts?

 

 
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