replaced the clutch cable!

[Dannyrose1]

Finally took the dive myself rather than put it in the garage,
Some how my clutch cable housing had snapped down by the adjuster by the air box
And everytime ide clean and relube it within DAYS it would feel stiff again
So i picked up a
New fz6 clutch cable from slinky glide for only £14
took me about two hours to fit as i have no clue what im doing lol
Took the airbox off and battery for better access
Its a fairly simple straight forward job just remember where everything went!
Also pissed my brother off holding the tank up for two hours
All in all feels brilliant lighter smooth as silk and just very proud of myself!
Probably saved alot of money too and did a oil and filter change
With forgetting i only had 2.5 litres of oil and the oil light came
On so i had to walk 3 miles to get 1 litre of oil haha
Cool news im training for the royal marines! Less bike riding

[Carlos840]

Well done, we all have to start somewhere when it comes to working on bikes/cars!

Next time though, instead of pissing off your brother use a piece of 2 by 4 or a broom handle/ stick/long screw driver to keep the tank up.

If you are working indoors you can even use a bungee cord, put one hoop through the holes at the front of the tank and attach the over one to your ceiling ( i hook it to the rails of my garage door)

Keep your brother happy and makes the whole thing easier!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A paint mixing stick works good too for holding up the tank..

If you remove that plastic clutch cable retainer next to the air box, that clutch cable can be removed without touching the tank, air box etc... I've had mine disconnected for years, there's no place for that cable to go..

I suspect Yamaha put it there to make assembly easier at the factory.


Congrates on the fix BTW!

[ccew]

Think I'll be doing this during winter.

I used a 2 foot level. Perfect fit and the tank is nice and high.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bobh]

I replaced mine recently as well. I'd been cursing the bike for a heavy clutch and clunky gearchange for as long as I can remember. Now it's as slick as anything - if only I'd done it years ago!

Yes, it's a bit of a fiddle to do, what with lifting the tank and taking out the airbox and battery, but I took the opportunity to fit a K&N air filter at the same time.

I haven't yet lubed the new cable. I must have poured gallons of oil down the old one without making much difference, and now I've heard that oil can actually make the nylon liner swell and make the cable stiffer. But the handbook says to lube. What do others do?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I replaced mine recently as well. I'd been cursing the bike for a heavy clutch and clunky gearchange for as long as I can remember. Now it's as slick as anything - if only I'd done it years ago!

Yes, it's a bit of a fiddle to do, what with lifting the tank and taking out the airbox and battery, but I took the opportunity to fit a K&N air filter at the same time.

I haven't yet lubed the new cable. I must have poured gallons of oil down the old one without making much difference, and now I've heard that oil can actually make the nylon liner swell and make the cable stiffer. But the handbook says to lube. What do others do?

I believe Yamaha calls for regular motor oil, it won't make the cable swell...

I use a cable specific lube/spray and a tool that clamps on the cable. Once the cables off at the lever, takes all but 10 seconds to blow all the old oil and crap out.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Lubber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387410858&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+luber]Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0182 Cable Lubber: Automotive[/ame]


[ame=http://www.amazon.com/PJ1-VHT-CABLE-LUBE-OZ/dp/B00230IIR2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1387410988&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+lube+motorcycle]PJ1/VHT PJ1 CABLE LUBE 11 OZ. - 1-12 : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

[yamihoe]

I usually have a bungee hold the tank up, run it from the bolt downs on top then back to one of the passenger grab rails.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I usually have a bungee hold the tank up, run it from the bolt downs on top then back to one of the passenger grab rails.

I'd be nervous of pulling the fuel pump wires too taught however your method does keep the entire area clear (without any sticks)...

Now, maybe a hydralic (from a rear hatch support of an suv) ram, mounted to hold the tank up without doing anything, that'd be the ticket!!!

[yamihoe]

you are correct Scott, I do unplug the pump but im not stretching the bungee at all, its only acting like a rope at that point.

[fb40dash5]

I'd be nervous of pulling the fuel pump wires too taught however your method does keep the entire area clear (without any sticks)...

Now, maybe a hydralic (from a rear hatch support of an suv) ram, mounted to hold the tank up without doing anything, that'd be the ticket!!!

I keep one of those adjustable bungees under the seat, specifically to hold the tank up. Works fine, and allows adjustment depending on how full the tank is.